Ten Days in South America

Ten Days in South America


About a month ago I sent an email to my friend Gwen. I asked her to let me know the next time she was heading down to Chile. She works for the Huneeus family at Quintessa in Napa. They also own Veramonte in the Casablanca Valley just a short drive outside of Santiago Chile, and she travels there often. She replied immediately that a trip was in the works - she was in the process of booking her flight. The plan was to meet up with her friend Mai (who is Chilean and also works at Quintessa), head over to Mendoza (a wine region just a short hop over the Andes in Argentina), and then back to Santiago for a couple days of work/meetings. I asked if I could tag along, they said no problem, we tacked a few days in Buenos Aires onto the tail end of the adventure, and I started packing. It was an exciting whirlwind of a trip and I returned with a notebook full of notes, stories, and recipe ideas that I look forward to weaving into the site over the coming months.

South America Travel

For starters, I thought I'd share with you the day-by-day broad strokes of trip, links to the places we ate, stayed and visited, along with a few of the faces I encountered along the way. Thanks to Gwen and Mai for letting me tag along at the last minute, and for introducing me to their friends (and in Mai's case family!). Also, to all the individuals who were so generous with their time - we were greeted with open doors, stories, and friendship all along the way.

8/2: Getting to South America
American Airlines San Francisco to Los Angeles ---> LAN from Los Angeles to Santiago, Chile ---> Stunning flight over the Andes Mountain range - LAN Santiago, Chile to Mendoza, Argentina

8/3: Arrive in Mendoza
Checked into the Park Hyatt Mendoza, on the Plaza de la Independencia, about fifteen minutes from the airport. Went for a run on the treadmill at the hotel and then walked around central Mendoza. It was a Sunday so not much was going on. Just around the corner from the hotel we tasted a bunch of local wines at The Vines of Mendoza Tasting Room (if you go ask for Emilia Martinez, she did a great job guiding us through the wines). I did the Las Muestras flight, a sampling of signature regional varietals and Gwen did Las Reservas de Argentina, the reserve selections. And we also ordered a fantastic plate of cheeses from the area.

South America Travel

8/4: Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza Wineries
Picked up our other friend Mai from the Mendoza airport. The Mendoza region is best known for its Malbecs and many of the wineries are a short drive outside Mendoza's city center. Having a driver was key to covering a lot of ground, and both drivers we had were great. If any of you want the details on the car company we used email me and I will track down that info for you. First stop - Carlos Pulenta Winery. Lunch at Club Tapiz's Terruño restaurant, Maipu. Onto Achaval Ferrer Winery, and back to Carlos Pulenta for a tour of his winery. Checked into Posada Borravino before dinner at 1884 Francis Mallmann at Bodega Escorihuela.

8/5: More Mendoza Wineries
- We ran into Laura Catena at dinner the previous night and she was nice enough to invite us to Catena Zapata - not a bad place to kick of the day and get my camera warmed up. Next up - a tasting at Vina Cobos, and then up the road for a quick tour of Cavas Wine Lodge. Lunch was great - we did a tasting and visited with Mai's friend Sebastian and his family and colleagues at Bodega Ruca Malen. They did some delicious vegetarian inspired food pairings for me - a couple in particular used everyday ingredients (like zucchini and eggplant) in delicious and unexpected ways. More to come on this front in a future post. We were running a bit late and missed our appointment at Terrazas de los Andes, so we ended up stopping off at Marcelino Wine Store on the way to the airport instead. Flew from Mendoza, Argentina to Santiago, Chile, and checked into the Ritz-Carlton, Santiago. Walked up the street for dinner at Akarana.

South America Travel

8/6: Santiago, Chile
I hung out solo in Santiago. Started my day with a macchiato from one of the numerous Starbucks within shouting distance of the hotel (Chile is not known for its coffee). Then took the impeccable subway system to the Mercado Central de Santiago. Took the subway back in the direction of the hotel but got off to try to find one of the tortas shops a friend told me about over dinner. Found the tortas, had another coffee and decided to walk back to the hotel from there when I stumbled on Organisk - a little organic/natural foods shop. I ended up chatting with one of the owners for a while, they had some great products in stock. Freshened up at the hotel before enjoying a fantastic lunch at Rai with friends Paulina and Roberto (of Chileangourmet). They took me to one of their favorite spots where Chef Raimundo Tagle is doing some very cool things with Chilean ingredients - I'll write about the specifics (and why I'm such a fan of the work Paulina and Roberto are doing in Chile) in a future post. Went for a run on the treadmill back at the hotel and decided to stick around the hotel. Went downstairs and had a veg. club sandwich at Ritz-Carlton Wine 365 and then did a tasting flight of Chilean white wines. And chef Leiva gave me an impromptu tour of the Ritz kitchen :)...

8/7: Santiago, Casablanca, and Valparaiso, Chile
Had a leisurely morning and then drove out to the Casablanca Valley for a tasting at Veramonte and a tour of the vineyards. Spent a very special afternoon with Mery and Cristian at the Eden-esque Matetic. I got to walk the vineyards with alpacas, see how Mery makes her delicious Torta del Rosario - made from the milk of the sheep on the ranch, and watch the sunset behind the hills. I threatened to move in. We then drove to coastal Valparaiso and checked into Zero Hotel (if you go, splurge for a room with a view). A big group of us walked down the hill for dinner at Pasta e Vino Ristorante.

8/8: Valparaiso, Chile
Coffee and breakfast on the patio, and then a walk around Valparaiso. We stopped off at Casa Museo La Sebastiana before a drive out to Quintay. Then we headed back to Santiago, and checked back into the Ritz-Carlton. Got back in time to hit up Pura and Pueblito Los Dominicos for a bit of shopping before everything closed for the night.

South America Travel

8/9: On to Buenos Aires, Argentina
On to Buenos Aires where we grabbed our luggage and hopped into a cab to the Palermo Viejo neighborhood. Five Cool Rooms was the destination. Grabbed some lunch and walked around Palermo Viejo - great shopping on the cheap. Stopped at Bar 6 a bit later for a caffeinated pick-me-up, and eventually ate dinner at Bereber - all walking distance from the hotel.

8/10: Buenos Aires, Argentina
San Telmo Antique Market in the morning - loads of vintage cameras, costume jewelry, and vintage wind-up alarm clocks and old, colorful South America license plates. Walked around a bit then hopped into a cab and went to La Boca which ended up over-the-top touristy - we only stayed about 15 minutes. Lunch in Recoleta. Back to Palermo Viejo, where we had dinner at Bar Uriarte.

8/11: Buenos Aires, Argentina
Took a taxi to the Casa Rosada, and then a walked up the street to Cafe Tortoni. Walked from there over to the Puerto Madero district where I squirreled away snacks for the plane at I Fresh Market. Checked out El Gato Negro spice shop. And then took yet another cab to Bio in Palermo for lunch. Back to Palermo Viejo, sat out a thunder storm at Bar 6 and then Mott, before having dinner somewhere not worth mentioning.

8/12: 24 hours of flying
Checked out of hotel. Never-ending series of flights home. LAN Buenos Aires ---> American Airlines Santiago, Chile ---> American Airlines Miami, Florida ---> American Airlines San Francisco, California. Back home before noon in time for lunch with Wayne.

 
 
 
 
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Your Comments


Cate
August 17, 2008

Sounds like quite a trip! I love Valparaiso, it kind of reminds me of the Berkeley Hills. I would love to go to Argentina!

 

Cindy
August 17, 2008

Heidi - thanks for sharing! My friend Ally and I were in Chile, Argentia and Brazil 10 months ago - and had the time of our lives! The diary of your travels brought back so many wonderful memories...South America in indeed a most amazing continent. If any readers are thinking about going there -- BOOK NOW - you will not regret it!!

 

Susy
August 17, 2008

I grew up in Colombia, S.A., it is such a wonderful place. I love the warmth of the people, the beauty of the landscape and the exotic tasting fruits. I only get to travel back every couple of years for a visit and I always make sure I take in all the foods I miss so much. You just can't get a passion fruit in Ohio like you can in Colombia (or mangoes, papaya, and guanabanas).

 

Heidi - wow, what a trip. I've traveled in so many parts of the world, but never to South America. Your trip sounded fantastic, especially because you had numerous friends to pave the way for you, give you recommendations, and introduce you to the locals. To me, that's the secret to great traveling - knowing somebody there or taking someone with you who knows the area. Loved the photos too.

 

Cheryl
August 17, 2008

Your portraits are as evocative as your food photos. And you've certainly whet my appetite with a desire to learn more about the food. Looking forward to the follow-up posts...

 

Allen
August 17, 2008

I look forward to seeing what you make in the weeks ahead!

 

Lynette
August 17, 2008

What an exciting trip. I must say those armed police were a bit scary as here policemen do not wear guns. Just like Allen I am eager to share your Chilean culinary adventure too. I am about to start working my way through the links you have provided in your story.

 

vegoftheweek
August 17, 2008

Lovely pics. Wish you had posted more!

 

sofia
August 17, 2008

How funny--we just got back ourselves from a few weeks in Argentina (mostly Bs.As.) with our two kids. totally agree with you about La Boca. It;s the only place where anyone spoke to me in English... But my cousins seemed to think we needed to go--I think it's like going to Fisherman's Wharf. We'll miss: (once we get tired of the summer bounfy of the Central Coast): the factura, the panqueques with dulce de leche, the ñoquis and most especialy the helado--esp. the peach-orange at Persicco in Belgrano. We tried to have helado every day but some days it just didn't fit into our busy schedule. Persicco also has a great hot chocolate (submarino).

 

Lori
August 18, 2008

I just started reading your blog a week or so ago. I'm really excited to read more about your trip.

I'm an US expat living in Brazil. I love to cook so I'm experiencing all of this South American food which is exciting. We hope to make it to Chile and Argentina next year.

 

Gwen McGill
August 18, 2008

Heidi-
Thanks for the wrap up of our adventures in South America! It was great to travel with you and I can't wait to try some of the recipes and foods we encountered along the way.
xo
Gwen

 

Sharada
August 18, 2008

We spent 6 years in Argentina. It's a great country, with such friendly people, but at that time, (20 years ago), not much for vegetarians! Didn't you see some terrific tango at "El Viejo Almacén" in the San Telmo area?

 

VeggieGirl
August 18, 2008

What an enchanting experience!!

 

biggord
August 18, 2008

Cool trip, but what does this have to do with recipes? Isn't that what this is for??

 

Olga from NJ
August 18, 2008

I also shop at Gato Negro for spices,just love the old fashion store,glad you had a good visit

 

Emily
August 18, 2008

Heidi, I get busy and stop reading for a month or so and come back to see you've been wandering around my neck of the woods! Glad you had such a good trip, and I can't wait to see some of the Chile-inspired recipes. My least favorite part of reading your blog is probably seeing a delicious recipe with ingredients that are totally out of season for me or that don't show up here, so I'm excited about what you might come up with after this trip.

 

Mmm love Malbec... sounds like a great trip! I've only been to South America once, to visit Brazil. Where, I might add, I ate some of the best food of my life!

 

rose
August 18, 2008

El Gato Negro, my Mom used to buy all her spices there-- they have a dry chimichurri mixture that is awesome- also a provencal mixtture that I always buy pounds of when I go back home and I use it when I roast potatoes-- yum....

 

jes
August 18, 2008

Your pictures are amazing--I'm really missing South America now!

 

Lakshmi
August 18, 2008

I have always wondered what I'd eat in S. America (being a vegetarian) but looks like I can survive... :)

 

Anonymous
August 18, 2008

Hi Heidi, this is my first time here!
You should go to Brazil, believe me it's a fun place and really good food, you will not regret it!

 

Adriana
August 18, 2008

Hi Heidi, this is my first time here!
You should go to Brazil, believe me it's a fun place and really good food, you will not regret it!

HS: Next trip!

 

denise
August 18, 2008

Please tell me you tried Pastel de Choclo and Empanadas de Pino in Chile?

 

Mai
August 18, 2008

Hola Heidi!
Loved your column! It was great fun traveling with you and can't wait to read your discoveries on new recipes with a south american accent.

Besos,
Mai

 

Jim Lang
August 18, 2008

Seeing your photographs, and being an amateur photographer, I have to ask. How do you approach people about photographing them? I haven't yet worked up the nerve to just ask someone if I could take a picture of them because they are a character.

HS: If anyone ends up being a character in a setting like, say, the market in Santiago it ends up being me. As far as taking portraits of people - approaching them, etc..it really depends. Many times (for example in some of these shots) I'll be talking with them about their work or lives, or chatting with one of their friends, or having a look at what they are doing (or working on)...and I'll simply ask - or point to the camera if all other forms of communication fail. The real challenges for me start there - slowing down in sometimes chaotic environments, attempting to find the right light (I still fail a lot in this regard), being patient, connecting with the subject. I learn something new every picture I take. -h

 

Kristie
August 18, 2008

Yay! I'm so glad you went to the country I'm from...Chile! Even my father was happy to see this post. If you ever go to Chile again, you must go to a small town called Chillan. Almost every other restaurant is Vegan/Vegetarian and oh so delicious! Did you get any good recipes while there? Can't wait to see!

 

jo
August 18, 2008

Hi Heidi,

I am completely falling in love with all of your recipes and photos! I also found the articles on oils and fats that you linked to on the spelt mac' and cheese recipe very interesting. Although it made me curious if you are vegetarian for health reasons or other? None of my business if it is a moral stand point, it just seems like so much of your cooking is about health and I was wondering if that is why you don't post any meat recipes.

 

Traci
August 18, 2008

South America is definitely on our roster of places to go soon! What a pleasure to see your post!

Can I ask a few questions? It seems like a GREAT place to just walk and see the sights! We have a toddler, so it would be great to find a safe place we could just walk around and explore. Also, we do not know any Spanish. Would that be a problem?

HS: Hi Traci, as is the case with traveling in any country, you get a lot more out of it if you know the language. That being said, my Spanish is terrible and I was able to make my way around. I'm sure there are many great toddler friendly areas to visit. I would say, in the same way that there are places/cities/neighborhoods to visit in the US that are safer than others - the same can be said of many of the S.A. cities. Up to date guide books are usually pretty good about letting you know where to go, and how to get there. There wasn't any point on this trip where I felt uncomfortable or unsafe - whether I was alone or with friends.

 

Virginia
August 18, 2008

Heidi!
I live in Santiago and I´m a big fan of your blog... I even bought your book at amazon and payed a shipment for it! I work for an "organic box" store here.
I´m very vary happy that you visited Chile (and Argentina!) It´s funny to see the chilean police picture in this post! Next time you come here go to con-con, near by Valparaíso ... there are great and cheap restaurants in there and they are very typical too!
A hug from chile!

HS: I had no idea I had so many readers in Santiago! If I had known I would have thought about doing some sort of get-together. Next time for sure, I look forward to going back soon :)

 

F Manji
August 18, 2008

How funny, we were just there 3 weeks ago, Santiago, Valparaiso, Bs As, Iguazu.
Hope you had the fish soup, cebiche and empanadas con mariscos / con roquefort in Chile, and spent some time in San Telmo in Bs As eating lomo as well!
We have lots of stories from there, can't wait to go back!

 

Gloria
August 18, 2008

Oh My God !!! Heidi, you dont believe this, Im from Santiago, Chile Im happy you stayed here and enjoyed, your pictures are really,really nice I love too Pueblito Los Dominicos and I know the Chef Tagle is soo good, Your really enjoy??? I think the people is warm here, not all, but the most of people, and Casablanca is sooo nice, are the best wines in this moment but you know this.
I read this because I suscribed to your Blog and enjoy yours recipes, Im blogging about 1 year (now I will a year) and if you like I invite you my Blog know my recipes of Chile and others and I post about some places of Chile, Valparaìso, South and others.xxx
Gloria

http://canelakitchen.blogspot.com

 

mana
August 18, 2008

heidi! I can´t believe you were visiting my country!!!! Yours is my home page, I love it!!! I am also a graphic designer, and as you, i enjoy cooking and eating very much... next time you pass by argentina, we should certainly meet each other, I can be your tourist guide!!!!
keep posting wonderful recipies!!!
mana

 

Cristian Matetic
August 18, 2008

Hola Heidi
Just to tell you that it was really nice meeting you and hope you can come back to our wondefull country again and discover more nice recipes overhere!!!!!

saludos

Cristian

 

Monica
August 18, 2008

Heidi!

Welcome back! And hello from Santiago again.

It's great to hear you had a good time and that you liked our neck of the woods. Please let's have some kind of get-together if you have the chance to get down here again. You won't believe the coincidence: I spent last weekend in Bs As, and we were in San Telmo at the same time!!! I would have loved meeting you.

I'm looking forward to your "southern" inspired recipes!

Monica

 

andrea
August 18, 2008

oh my goodness, what a wonderful post! my friend and i are in the very very early planning stages of a trip to south america this winter, and this just makes me want to go even more! thank you!

 

Rebecca
August 18, 2008

Heidi! What a great trip! Sounds like you had a wonderful time! Your photos are amazing and I look forward to seeing and hearing more!

 

Michael
August 18, 2008

My wife and I were in the San Telmo market the same day you were! We're now back in the Bay Area enjoying the fruits of summer (and yummy summer ice cream flavors like Basil at Ici in Berkeley) and Coles Coffee in Oakland.

 

Chelle
August 18, 2008

HI Heidi,

Welcome home... you must be tired after all the travel! I just want to say how much I enjoy reading anything you write. I recieve email from you about your latest recipe's and you have such a talent with writing that I can't help but read what you have written. You have a way of drawing a person in. Thank you for making food very interesting to read about!

 

R Islam
August 19, 2008

I love the beaches of brazil. I wish if I have to visit the beaches of Rio.

Hero

 

Anderson
August 19, 2008

Next time, have a time here in Brazil, it's wonderful. I highly suggest Florianopolis which has great vegetarian options (it's considered the vegetarian island here) and for a wonderful contact with nature, spend a time in Bonito (I've never been there, but it's a must go).

 

Ahhh jealousy. I have long wanted to travel to the southern cone wine region. I even considered trying to write a dissertation on the rise of the south american wine industry but instead my heart (and subsequently the rest of me) was in the hot and slightly less refined region of west africa.

There is a small hole in the wall Chilean restaurant in my neighborhood that makes spectacular Arroz con Pollo, and after several attempts I was finally able to replicate it. I'd love to see if you came home with a similar recipe.

 

olivia
August 19, 2008

Hi Heidi! I can't believe you were in Buenos Aires this August!! I discovered 101cookbooks.com stumbling and I became a fanatic. I live in Cordoba, Argentina, the second major city in country. When I go to Buenos Aires, I always have lunch at Bar 6 (my favourite) and I always buy spices at El gato Negro! I hope that you have enjoyed your stay in Argentina... Did you tried our dulce de leche (kind of creamy caramel)?

Love your recipes!!

 

Paul
August 19, 2008

Great post Heidi,
I found this signature on a post to a motor home group and want to share it with you.
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming -- WOW-- What a Ride!"
- author unknown
Best, Paul

 

wilbert
August 19, 2008

may i contanct with my friend direct

 

Carolina
August 19, 2008

I'm a big fan of your blog. I love your recipes. I'm also Chilean and a Santiago resident. I can't wait to see if you post any Chile-inspired recipes!

 

Molly Chester
August 19, 2008

Hi Heidi,

I am a private chef in Santa Monica, CA. I really enjoy your blog, and I visit nearly daily. I thought I would share my blog with you.

http://organicspark.blogspot.com

Best,

Molly

 

Aaron Kagan
August 19, 2008

Two staples from living and working with a friend from Valpo this summer: porotes granados and all the mate we could drink.

www.teaandfood.blogspot.com


 

Cori
August 19, 2008

Heidi - we are hardcore 101cookbooks fans at Strongheart Fellowship, an awesome global-culture home for exceptional young people from extreme circumstances. We're in West Africa - in Liberia - in a great little beach town called Robertsport. Will you come develop some yummy recipes from our cool local produce?? We'd love to host you!!

 

Cori
August 19, 2008

Oh - here's my blog and also our website:

www.girlseeksworld.com

www.strongheartfellowship.org

We have a volunteer trip in late October...maybe you could advise us on setting up our kitchen? :)

 

Hillary
August 19, 2008

Isn't it amazing? I just went to Argentina in July! It was my first trip to South America While I didn't make it anywhere in Chile (or Brazil or Uruguay like I had wanted - due to time and money constraints) I did go to Buenos Aires and Iguazu Falls. Both destinations were amazing! I didn't find La Boca all that touristy (except maybe the soccer stadium). How did you not find Cafe Tortoni to be one of the most touristy spots? I loved it there but it's a photo-taking hotspot.

 

Julie
August 19, 2008

I did the Chile/Buenos Aires trip after I got married and I was wondering if on your flight from chile to argentina did they "fog" your plan before you landed? We thought it was the strangest when the flight attendants walked up and down the aisle with aerosol cans fogging us of bugs/germs.
Going to try your ricotta and lasagna tonight/tomorrow. Thanks for the excellent posts

 

Anne-Marie
August 19, 2008

Hi!

I can't wait to see what recipe idea you've brought back with you. I'm eager to cook!

I've just got around to trying your zucchini bread recipe. It's still warm from the oven, and I couldn't resist eating a whole slice even though it's almost supper time. I just loved the smell that was coming out of the oven as I was baking : first the deep aroma of cinnamon, and the smell of coriander and fennel from the curry. Yummy!

Now I just hope my husband won't be discouraged by the "zucchini part" and try it! ;)

 

Chrissie
August 19, 2008

Hi Heidi! So glad you made it to Mendoza! And glad to hear you had such a fabulous time, since moving here I have had nothing but a fantastic life. :) Looking forward to seeing your recipes from your trip.

Chrissie

 

Otelli
August 20, 2008

Wow this is great Heidi, I love your foods and I love to read your adventure, I'm trying to get some space of time to do my own adventure for trying your recipe.
I'm going to try split pea soup tomorrow.

Elly

 

Erin
August 20, 2008

I am positively green with envy! I been wanting to visit Chile and Argentina, but didn;t know where to start, now I have all of your adventure for my guide!

 

Sharon
August 20, 2008

Great article! I fell in love with BA and bought this apartment there. It's currently for rent as I have some business to take care of in the U.S. http://www.santelmo85.com

 

Norma
August 20, 2008

I'm a Culinary Student in Argentina! too bad I did't had the chance to show you around...I love this city! going back to SF in October .

 

Chati Cajas
August 20, 2008

Heidi,

After trying several of your recommended recipes I've come to trust your judgement. I'm not impressed with Chilean food, and would love to hear your comments and what you learned (not talking of international food in Chile which is a different thing).
Best to you from Guatemala,
ch

 

Saint Udio
August 20, 2008

Hello Heidi,

Thanks for letting us see your trip to South America. I am definitely hanging out for a bit of summer. Currently freezing our buns off in (not so) sunny Melbourne Australia. We get winter when you get summer. Brrr. I think sometimes we get winter when everyone else gets summer here too.

I get another e-newsletter that I thought might be interesting and helpful - and so much fun to check out the stuff that gets put up there. Very funky too. Check out

www.journeywoman.com

I reckon that they'd be interested in you and what you do too. I'm sure that they'd love to see the diary of the trip - and open up a whole new group of viewers for your fabulous site.

JZ

 

Saint Udio
August 20, 2008

Maybe they are in winter too in S.A.? I'm not sure how far south is Santiago, but I imagine that Buenos Aires would be a little fresh at this time of the year.
;)
JZ

 

Pili
August 21, 2008

Heidi,

you just made me cry. I miss Argentina so much!!!

I am the only argentinean girl in Saigon, I will share this wonderful post with all my South American friends here...

Buen provecho, y hasta la proxima!!

Pili

 

Kimberly
August 21, 2008

Heidi, what a wonderful trip!!! Chile & Argentina have always been on my list of must-visit countries, so this was a great little preview. Loved the pictures, too. Just one request for next time... could your links to all the great sites you featured be targeted to new windows so I don't have to navigate away from your page? Thanks!

Susy, how great to see a fellow Colombian on here! My mom is from Cali and our family would visit every summer for about 3 months. One of the things I miss the most is all the great tropical fruit, like you mentioned. How awesome would it be to have a tall glass of jugo de curuba or some tomate de arbol? :)

 

Juan
August 21, 2008

I m glad most of you liked argentina.. in case I can help someone I will be more than glad..

This is my email ( jepaul@gmail.com)

 

Jill
August 22, 2008

So, you stayed at the Ritz Carlton, went to Starbucks, and ran on a treadmill... sorry, but that doesn't really sound like an authentic South American experience to me!

 

Marina
August 22, 2008

I'm glad you enjoyed your trip.

¡El gato negro! The smell is beautiful, I could just stand in front of their windows for hours trying to detect which was the last container they opened. They have a special spice mix (kind of a massala of their own) that's great! They used to sell it also in supermarkets here in Buenos Aires, but now you can only find it on their shops.

Next time you get in Buenos Aires, try "La esquina de las flores"; it's a shop/restaurant that's vegetarian. I think it's even vegan.


 

ali kaveh
August 22, 2008

im am good

 

bob
August 23, 2008

I loved flying over the andes mountains
one of the most beautiful sights I have ever seen
HOWEVER, half way across our jet lost an engine very scary managed to land in the nick of time whew

 

bob
August 23, 2008

I loved flying over the andes mountains
one of the most beautiful sights I have ever seen
HOWEVER, half way across our jet lost an engine very scary managed to land in the nick of time whew

 

bob dehn
August 23, 2008

I would like to talk to some one that has been in CHILE lately.....how safe it is, etc
can the people there speak english

 

shagggy
August 24, 2008

i am good

 

Raegan
August 24, 2008

Sounds like your trip was wonderful. I traveled alot when I was in the army. I was stationed in Hanau Germany. Gosh we went everywhere.But it seems like you have to have a decent amount of money to experience the culture their.I visited your links and don't think I could afford to go to 1/3 of the places you went. Me and my husband of 7 yrs were first married in Denmark.It was beautiful there.We would like to go back there maybe on our 10th anniversary.I love to experience different cultures.I would love to visit the places you have visited.

My email is - raeganmiers@yahoo.com

From, Raegan

P.S. - I was a cook in the army - I love to cook. And my favorite food in Germany was the Donar Kabob's)Mmmm...

 

Karol
August 24, 2008

Hola Heidi!
I'm colombian, live in Chile and I've been a fan of your blog for over a year now, I love your pictures, recipes and how you tell stories about them.
I liked this post, but I wish you'd made more comments about the restaurants you visited, isn't Pasta e Vino wonderful?? I would have loved to meet you, so I'll be looking forward for your next trip, I think the get-together idea is great! I didn't know you had so many readers here, either.
I also hope you get the chance to visit Colombia, we have wonderful ingredients and recipes, as well as in other S.A. countries!

 

Karol
August 24, 2008

Oh, forgot to tell you: my life before and after your Apple Curried Couscous, love it!

 

Takeo
August 25, 2008

Hi Heidi! Long time reader.
Please save my mail for a future trip to Buenos Aires.Send me a heads up and i'll do my best to arrange a foodie tour with the "only for locals" spots.
Love the blog and the pics.
Takeo

 

malomey
August 25, 2008

Heidi:

Your photographs are breathtaking...it's obvious you focus with your eye and your heart...

 

katie
August 26, 2008

Thank you! I've been reading your blog for about a year now and my partner and I will be in Argentina in November for our honeymoon. I'm going to have to add a few of things you mentioned to my list!

 

arun
August 26, 2008

I'm glad you enjoyed your trip.
¡El gato negro! The smell is beautiful, I could just stand in front of their windows for hours trying to detect which was the last container they opened. They have a special spice mix (kind of a massala of their own) that's great! They used to sell it also in supermarkets here in Buenos Aires, but now you can only find it on their shops.
Next time you get in Buenos Aires, try "La esquina de las flores"; it's a shop/restaurant that's vegetarian. I think it's even vegan.

 

Marina
August 26, 2008

I've got an echo, LOL. Somebody is copying my message a lot!

 

Jose Teixido
August 27, 2008

Great article!!!. Next time you let me know when you are in town (Buenos Aires). You gotta check out some of the restos in Las Cañitas.

 

Gabriela Guaimare Olivo
August 29, 2008

Nice trip and reviews. although Chile and Argentina is not even half of what South America is all about.
Go to Colombia, taste delicious Ceviche in Peru, have the best Cachapas in my hometown in Venezuela... I offer to be your guide ;)

 

Carla
August 31, 2008

I loved seeing the picture of the two "carabineros" (cops)...it brought back so many good memories of my native land...so happy you were able to make it there...I am jealous!