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I have a friend in Vancouver who has a beautiful cookbook collection - he is a publisher, a publisher of cookbooks - so it is to be expected. A few years back when I was first thinking about doing my own book, he welcomed me into his beautifully restored craftsman-type home where we ended up enjoying the warm Vancouver evening sitting in the garden, chatting, sipping drinks, and hanging out with his loyal dog. The home sits a few blocks from what I hazily recall being a small but striking inlet - where you can pick up a ferry. I remember thinking to myself that it seemed like a wonderful place to live. The air was crisp and clear, the streets - not too wide, and the neighbors were friendly and chatty.

His house was perfectly arranged. Neat and tidy. This obviously poses a problem for anyone living with lots of books who also lacks the acres of bookshelf space required to keep them orderly. His cookbooks were dispersed in pockets throughout the house, all behind closed doors - a cabinet here, a shelf there, the better part of the guest room closet...full of cookbooks. The favorites were kept in a kitchen cupboard, close at hand.

He showed me the books in the kitchen last. I asked which ones he enjoyed cooking from the most...which ones were his personal favorites? After listing off a few he told me about The Olives Table, and said it was remarkable, said he cooked from it all the time. When we stopped off at Barbara-Jo's Books to Cooks the next day, I purchased the book, and it has since become well-worn and cherished.

The Garbanzo Burgers are a favorite (oops, actually in his Fig's Table cookbook). The Country Walnut Mashed Potatoes as well. It is the perfect time of year to try the Brick-Oven Cherry Tart. The Artichoke Pancake recipe was another I'd earmarked to try. They were delicious, fun, and not-time consuming. Make them small, blini-sized, and you'll have a perfect, finger food treat for friends at your next party. In a pinch for time, you can make the batter the night before and use it the next day, pre-party, without ill consequences. I made half the pancakes last night, and did the second half today, and they were both delicious.

The artichoke flavor isn't overpowering, it comes through in a subtle finish. I also like their soft, pastel green tint which lets people know something special, different, and delicious snuck into their pancakes. I sprinkled fresh snipped chives on top of the goat cheese filling for a little extra visual/flavor zing.

Artichoke Pancakes with Goat Cheese

3 fresh, frozen, or canned artichoke hearts
2 lemons, cut in half
3 large eggs
1/4 cup water
1/3 cup all purpose flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
2 large egg whites
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 tablespoons crumbled goat cheese
1 tablespoon sour cream

Fill a large bowl with ice water.
If using fresh artichokes, prepare as follows:
- To prepare artichoke bottoms, slice off the stems of the artichokes and remove any tough outer leaves. Place them in a large non-aluminum pot and cover them with cold water. Squeeze the lemons into the pot, add the juice and the lemon halves to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to a medium and cook until the artichokes are tender, about 25 minutes. Use the tines of a fork to check for tenderness.

Place the artichokes in the ice water. When they are cool enough to handle, drain and remove the leaves and the fuzzy chokes. Trim off the edges of the bottoms.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Place the artichoke bottoms, eggs, and water in a blender or a food processor fitted with a steel blade and blend until creamy. Pour into a mixing bowl, add the flour, salt, and pepper, and combine until the mixture forms a thick paste.

Whip the egg whites in a dry copper or stainless steel bowl until they hold stiff peaks. Gently fold into the artichoke mixture.

Place a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat and when it is hot, add the oil. Drop dollops of batter (about 2 tablespoons per pancake), a few at a time, into the hot oil. When the edges begin to stiffen, turn the pancakes over and cook until lightly golden, abut 2 minutes. Place the pancakes on an oven proof plate.

Combine the goat cheese and sour cream in a small mixing bowl. Top each pancake with a large dollop of the goat cheese mixture and place in the oven until the cheese just begins to melt, about 2 minutes.

Serves 4; Makes 8 little or 4 large pancakes.

From The Olives Table by Todd English and Sally Sampson (Simon & Schuster, 1997) - reprinted with permission

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