Porcini Mushroom Fettuccine Recipe
This fettuccine recipe was inspired one of the many trips I made to the Testaccio Market while in Rome. Fresh ribbons of pasta with olive oil, porcini mushrooms, garlic, black pepper, and pecorino cheese.
This fettuccine recipe was inspired one of the many trips I made to the Testaccio Market while in Rome over the past couple of weeks. As the dollar was creeping toward an all-time low against the Euro, I somehow convinced Wayne it was a good time to go to Rome - not only that, I convinced him it was a good idea to spend nearly a month in Rome and central Italy.
Because of the time difference between San Francisco and Italy we'd find ourselves wide-eyed at 5:00 a.m. those first couple of mornings - ready to start the day. Rome was still dark and quiet, and for those few early hours the cobblestone streets outside our window were void of the characteristic melee of cars, scooters, pedestrians, and baby buggies fighting over common byways. Our apartment was in the heart of Trastevere, and depending on your choice of footwear, within walking distance of most of the center city. If I were to try to emulate the Italians in their 3-inch stilettos, chances are I wouldn't make it across the Tiber.
A few cafes would roll up their metal gates at sunrise. An hour or so later you might stumble on vendors setting up umbrellas and tables in the middle of a piazza, getting ready for the first influx of shoppers. Rome's markets are legendary, and while the Campo dei Fiori and San Cosimato markets were the closest to our apartment, I found myself looking forward to a daily trek south through Trastevere, across the Ponte Sublicio, and down the street to the Testaccio Market in Rome's ancient slaughterhouse district. The tourists were few and far between (in contrast to the rest of the city), and the market is frequented by Romans from the immediate neighborhood. The sellers were friendly - the elderly lady with her eggs stacked up by the dozen and half dozen on a collapsable card table in one corner remembered me on day two (or maybe it was just my painfully bad Italian), there was a great range of produce, and much of it seemed well cared for.
Shopping at the markets in Rome is an interesting exercise for me. It's both totally comfortable and curiously foreign. I'm familiar with much of the produce and know what to do with it - shop well, and don't screw it up by over-handling it once I get it back to the apartment. It's the market etiquette that throws me for a loop. Is it o.k. to bag your own tomatoes, or is that considered rude? The woman in front of me just bought enough greens and onions to feed forty people. The guy behind her bought five paper bags brimming with oranges and apples. Is it going to be weird if I want to buy just this one head of garlic? And on and on. I try not to sweat it too much, fumbling along, mute for the most part, smiling and gesticulating a lot. More times than not people smile back.
My first double-take at the Testaccio Market (and the inspiration for today's recipe) came when I walked by a vendor selling mushrooms. The porcini left me slack-jawed. They ranged in size from small to super-sized, bits of dirt and moss clung to each stem. Not to be outdone, the chanterelles glowed with golden light from their neighboring baskets. What to buy? I use chanterelles quite a lot at home so I opted for few modest-weight porcini. In addition to the mushrooms I picked up a dime-bag of freshly ground pepper that would later leave my lips tingling for hours. A short walk across the street to the little shop selling fresh egg pasta was my next stop. Behind the glass counter they had four or five types of pasta to choose from - none seemed quite right. I turned my head and caught a glimpse of a man leading long strands of fettuccine from the pasta machine, he gave me a warm smile. I pointed and gave a hopeful look to the woman behind the counter, and she said, "ahhhhh, fettuccine?" Si.
I left with enough fresh fettuccine to feed a small army under one arm, my market finds in a bag under the other. Wayne had a small piece of Pecorino cheese back at the apartment leftover from a picnic the day before...plenty to provide for a tasty dinner in our adopted kitchen - which by the way, was outfitted just slightly better than dueling gas burners in the New Zealand camper van ;)...More posts (and photos) to come from Italy soon!
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Porcini Mushroom Fettuccine
I used pecorino, but you can use Parmesan if that is more convenient. I suspect this would also be delicious with spinach or whole wheat noodles, or a blend - similar to the "straw and hay" recipe in Super Natural Cooking. Feel free to use dried noodles as well, if that is easier for you to come by. If porcini mushrooms aren't available feel free to substitute brown mushrooms - roughly a cup or two chopped. If you want to get extra decadent, finish off the noodles with a splash of cream.
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2-3 fresh porcini mushrooms, chopped (1-2 cups)
fine grain sea salt
5 cloves garlic, chopped
1 pound fresh egg fettuccine noodles
scant 1/2 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground
1/4 cup pecorino cheese, grated
zest of one lemon
Bring a large pot of water to a boil.
In the meantime, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in your largest skillet over high heat. Add the mushrooms and a big pinch of salt. Saute the mushrooms until they release their liquid and begin to brown. Now stir in the garlic and cook for another 30 seconds or so. Remove from heat and set the skillet aside - I also set aside a little stash of the browned mushrooms (in their own little cup) to use later as garnish.
Salt the pot of water generously and cook the fettuccine noodles according to package instructions - this is usually just a minute, or less. Drain. Transfer the noodles to the skillet with mushrooms, and stir in the black pepper, cheese, lemon zest, and the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil. A splash of cream tossed in here would really take things over the top - totally optional.
Serve on a platter, with as many of the mushrooms on top as possible.
Serves 4 to 6.
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I just got a box of wild mushrooms, I might try to make this with those! I made the wheat berry salad from your latest cookbook tonight, it was a big hit and I already have requests to make it again!
Our experience in Rome with Porcini was good enough for me to paint a watercolor as my wife was pleading with the lady who was selling the mushrooms and didn't allow my choosey wife to pick those that she thought was good enough quality.The picture will follow tomorrow if you want to use it, you are welcome to do it. Gabor
how interesting! in twelve days my husband and i are also headed to Italy--to an apartment in the Trastevere, then to a farm outside of Sora! was glad to see your post and get some advice on markets. it will be my first trip, so any other suggestions you have would be much appreciated! thank you for such a wonderful site!
I'm so envious that you're in ITALY! I lived there about 15 years ago for several months and savoured every minute---and every bit of the food! I remember picking up a lemon the size of a baby's head at one outdoor market, taking a photo, and getting scolded----in many Italian markets THEY like to do the touching and bagging. No squeezing the Charmin at their stand! :) Recipe looks DELISH---but I just used all my wild mushrooms tonight to make Barley Risotto with Mushrooms! Back to the store I go!
I'm going to have to try this! It sounds fantastic!
Ahhh, you captured that well -- my neighborhood, the market, the vendors, the perfume of the Porcini, the color of the chantralle.... and that lovely pasta shop - not to be missed! Pity, I didn't run into you, but glad you found the home of good produce!
wow, looks cool! I'm alwasy fascinated seeing the processes behind what we eat:)
Fun...I'd like to have the man with the pasta machine in my neighborhood!
As a fan of food, the press, and things French, I thought you might have some insight into my ponderings about an old French food magazine I bought: http://franceprofonde.blogspot.com/2007/10/odd-couple.html It would be great if you could take a look! Your blog never ceases to amaze...
This is something I wish I had done more of when I was in Italy. I would have loved to have had the time to wander around the local markets. There is always next time.
...macy's? I must be on the wrong page
This was very easy to make and it was yummy! I didn't follow the directions as well as I should have, I forgot to add the pepper and I accidentally used only 3 garlic cloves instead of 5, so mine was a tiny bit void of flavor, but it was still awesome. (I am three for three out of messing up the directions on one of these recipes, the cottage cheese muffins, I used baking SODA instead of powder haha, and the espresso caramels, I didn't simmer at high enough temperature so I had to stir for a long time, ... but they thankfully all turned out ok-ish or at least edible.)
To Rebecca, you can replicate the flavor here if you grow your own tomatoes and basil. I don't myself, but a friend of mine does and let me tell you, the flavor is SOOO much better in a caprese sandwich. You are making my mouth water. Also, if you prefer growing cherry tomatoes, shape your cheese into balls about the same size and skewer them. (basil goes in between) Really fun way to eat caprese.
I know this is a long shot, but I'm going to be back in Rome late on the 8th, through the 9th, before we fly out. What are the chances of an impromptu meet-up for a coffee or drink w/ anyone in the area on the 9th? Also, beautiful shots Michael! It would have been fun to meet you in person. -h
Awesome, Heidi. Turns out were were there at the same time as you! Here are some pictures I took at the Campo dei Fiori market. I'm so jealous you had a kitchen, I had to settle for just drooling (and then eating at awesome restaurants :).
Aw and BTW enjoy the trip!
Heidi, it is 22:00 down here in Asunción, Paraguay and while I usually LOVE this site I'm really hating you right now!... you are making my mouth water and there is nothing like this dish in a 1500 Kms radius. Gotta wait until tomorrow to hit the market and get some fresh items... hey! maybe a romantic dinner is in order :) Hmmmm, Thanks! love you again!
The recipes on this site are SO good, you can actually smell them!!
All I can say is 'I'm jealous' and YUM!
How can one go wrong if one has fresh porcinis? Damn, even the rehydrated dried ones are delicious...simple and tasty plate.
Market etiquette can be a challenge. It took me awhile to figure out that in Spain, when you decide to purchase from a vendor you ask in a loud voice 'who's last?' That person raises their hand and your order is established. When the next person comes up you respond and so on. Efficient, if you know it.... oh, and never touch anything!
So you were at about 1 kilometer away from my kitchen and I didn't even know??!!!! This is really a terrible news I'm reading!! (well, hum, now you know for next time ;-)
Anyone have a favorite recipe for egg fettuccine noodles?
I'm going to Rome on Tuesday! And number one on my list of goodies to find were porcinis! I've never seen fresh porcinis, though I've used dried many times. I just wish my hotel had a kitchen!
I am so jealous!!!! I took a 10 day trip to Tuscany with my family in 2005. I have since been pining for the food options and have often considered running off and moving there. The only culinary disappointment was the bread. It tasted like matzoh with leaven in it. I am going to run home and try out your recipe, it looks lovely
Ah, Rome. What a fabulous place! I'm so jealous. We spent a month there several years ago, and another month several years before that. I am fortunate to have a lot of family there, but we haven't been able to get back there in a while. Your pasta looks great. Isn't it funny how the simplest things can also be the most wonderful?
Looks mighty good. I wonder if it is considered to be on the biggest losers diet.
Forget the photos of Italy--may we please have a photo of the finished dish? I know the recipe is plenty mouth-watering, but I'd love to see the result. Yum!
your jet lag is ithe inverse of mine. when i get to Europe I keep oversleeping in the morning and want to stay up all night, then when I get back here (as I have just done), I keep waking up all early like. I was up at 5 this morning, again, despite having been back for already for 6 days.
Wow, you are just in time. I just booked a trip to Rome in Feb. Hope it's not too cold for the markets. We are taking our 16 yr old grandson because he has done so well in school. Is there a restaurant we should definitly try? We were there before a cruise in 2000 but not long enough and wanted to return. We have a week this time. I get the feeling that no matter how many times you go, you want to return. Looking forward for more of your story. Thanks.
Oh wow! Mushroom pasta - porcini, no less! Thanks for the recipe!
And i was feeling excited about hitting Vermont farmer's markets last week and Philly's next week! I'm inspired to make the same recipe tonight. Grazie...
Heidi, how lucky to live in Rome for nearly a month! Wow. I wish... I haven't been there since I was 11-1/2. I spent 3 days there. I ate my first personal pizza, my first bowl of Pasta Fagioli, and my first Gelati at the bottom of the Spanish Steps. I wonder if the vendors are still there? It's been 34 years since I was there. I then spent 4 days in Florence. I remember it well. The food there was TDF. Lucky lady. In those days I was a picky eater. I wouldn't have eaten porcini pasta. I would today. I have a container of dried porcini in my pantry. I love the smell of them. I bought 1 fresh porcini at Wegman's once, just to taste the fresh version. It was $40 a lb. One cost me like $5 or something like that. It was well worth it. I will keep this and when I find fresh ones again I will make it. Until then I can use the dried, right?
Thank you so much Heidi for sharing this with us. Love your blog and artistic pictures!
I'm so jealous of your being in Italy while fresh porcinis are available. When I was there last year I found a wonderful brand of dried poricinis and carted two large bags of same home. Wish I 'd bought much, much more.
I just love pasta and mushrooms. The Italians knows how to eat well. I am always looking for ways to make pasta and checking out 101 Cookbooks will give me a chance to show my cooking skills.
I studied abroad in Rome in college, and lived just blocks from the Campo dei Fiori. I would buy a bunch of fresh basil, bright-red tomatoes (I was there during the summer), lumps of buffalo mozzarella, and fresh bread at one of the little bakeries...I had caprese sandwiches almost every day for lunch! I've never been able to replicate that recipe here in Seattle, even with the buffalo mozzarella I can get at PCC, our local chain co-op. Somehow, it just doesn't cut it stateside. Thanks for posting your Italian experiences , Heidi! I look forward to seeing pictures.
I've only discovered the joys of mushrooms and thus haven't tried chantarelle or porcini. But I did try trumpet royale...and they were out of this world!
I love porcini pasta. Tossed with some fresh sage, butter, and some pecorino. Yummm.
wow, I just got back from italy myself. no time to cook, it was a ruin-gawking trip. Now I want to go back!
Hey, thanks a lot for this yummi and quick recipe! I love both pasta and mushrooms, and this is an inspiring way of enjoying them. Heidi, you make me nostalgic. Italy, italians, italian food! I was there a year ago, and I have great memories of that journey.
wow heidi! I just must go to Italy!! Between you and Shauna James Ahern... I am just dying to go! What a wonderful description you have given! That market sounds amazing! I would love to see fresh pasta being made and visit a market like that! Tell us more about your trip!!! Thank you for the wonderful recipe! I wonder if it would be excellent with gluten-free pasta as well?
wow heidi! I just must go to Italy!! Between you and Shauna James Ahern... I am just dying to go! What a wonderful description you have given! That market sounds amazing! I would love to see fresh pasta being made and visit a market like that! Tell us more about your trip!!! Thank you for the wonderful recipe! I wonder if it would be excellent with gluten-free pasta as well?
Ah, you're making me all misty eyed. My husband and I were married in Rome and spent three weeks traveling Italy this past May. My only regret was that of the two days that we spent in a self-catering apartment (with a kitchen), we were too far from the fresh markets to utilize their bounty. The markets made me drool, but the rest of the time we were in hotel type accommodations. The biggest difference I noticed about Italian food, besides the fact that everything was, well, better, was that even the most insignificant bit of produce or dairy seemed more flavorful and fresh than anything I've had in the US. The few modest meals I made were amazing, making me sad to realize I'd never be able to find such fresh ingredients in the U.S. Maybe if we didn't ship apples and lettuce 1500 miles, or homogenize cheese production until there's no flavor left, we Americans could enjoy our food the way that the Romans do! I hope you'll post some pictures from your trip! What a great entry...
One of the things I miss the most about Italy is going to the market...mostly because I would get to bring home my treasures and cook them up into a little feast for myself. Hope you are enjoying Rome.
Beautiful. Totally spectacular. I hate to admit this, but I don't actually like mushrooms. Even so, this recipe still makes my mouth water! I honestly believe that it doesn't get much better than Italy ... the sights, the smells, the people, and the absolutely to-die-for food. It just can't be beat.
mmmm! must be so nice to be in italy, in an apartment where you can experiment with the local produce (and cheeses! and wines!)... i spent a month in florence a few years ago and Italy is one of those places I dream of going back to... the fresh produce, the unbelievable food, the culture, the breathtaking architecture.... enjoy!!
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