Ten Days in Paris

Ten Days in Paris Recipe

Update: 4/2/12 I'm consolidating my Paris information onto a more current page. It includes a map, a long list of places I enjoy in Paris, and links to other Paris references. Here's the link: Paris: Places I love.

It's 5:45 in the morning, the sky is starting to glow ever so slightly near the horizon, and all is still and quiet outside. I'm sitting on my sofa wide awake. My body thinks it's the middle of the day, and there is no way around it - I'm in for a couple more early mornings before I can shake this jet lag. So. I thought I'd make myself some tea, watch the sun come up, and take a bit of time to share my notes on Paris, before the details of this adventure start to slip my mind.

Ten Days in Paris

I mentioned a few weeks ago that Clotilde and I decided to swap apartments. She came to San Francisco while I went to Paris. Wayne and I spent ten days in Paris criss-crossing the city on foot and by subway, darting into patisseries, taking photographs, and sitting on benches in flower-lined city gardens. We ate well in Paris, and I found plenty to be inspired by in the little cafes serving up seasonal tarts, salads, crepes, and quiches.

We settled into Clotilde's lovely Montmartre apartment just short walk down the hill from the Sacré-Cœur. After the long flight Wayne and I unloaded our bags and walked five minutes to Rose Bakery for a late lunch. I'll tell you right now, I could eat there everyday for the rest of my life and be perfectly content. The curried yellow lentil soup I ordered hit just the right note that first rainy day in Paris. The rain cleared in the afternoon and we eventually walked up the hill to the Sacre Coeur. It was a nice (if not touristy) way to start our exploring. Paris at your feet, the sun threatening to set behind the Eiffel Tower off in the distance, Parisians lounging on the steps with wine in hand.

Ten Days in Paris

We then dove right in to the museums, cafes, and hussle-bustle of Paris. There were many things worth remembering about this trip, but I tried to condense it into a list of highlights - places I loved, great food I tasted, the best things I did. Hopefully the list can serve as a bit of inspiration if you find yourself in Paris sometime soon.

Paris highlights: Shopping for seasonal gems at the Saturday morning President Wilson Market - fresh hazelnuts, currants, flame-tinted grapes, pretty flowers and piles of golden chanterelles. // Cartier-Bresson exhibit at the Musee d'Art Modern // Planet Parr exhibit at Jeu De Paume. // Picnic lunch & people watching at the Luxembourg Gardens. // Good pizza with arugula, frosty beer, and friendly service at La Briciola in the Marais. // Browsing hundreds of stalls of books, chandeliers, and vintage wares at the Sunday flea markets in Clignancourt - I should also mention we had a tasty Breton-style buckwheat crepe with egg and a bit of cheese, just down the road a few steps from the market Dauphine stalls. Highly recommended if you need a quick bit of shopping sustenance. // Stopped into Mariage Freres for a few tea-related gifts. // Best fallafel sandwich ever at L'as du Fallafel in Le Marais - enjoyed while standing in a nearby doorway. // Best espresso we had in Paris was close to L'as du Fallafel at Pozzetto (great pistachio gelato too). // Seeing Matisse's Nu aux oranges at the Centre Pompidou, then snapping pics of the Paris rooftops from the escalator and finishing things off with a visit to the easy-to-miss Atelier Brancusi down below. // Walking the city with David was a real treat- bought some rosemary flecked fougasse and pain à l'ancienne at Du Pain et des Idées. Dinner was at Le Verre Volle, a charming little spot with a handful of tables - just my speed. Plenty of seasonal deliciousness, cheese, and wine all around. You can pull bottles from the wall and drink them with dinner, or purchase them to go instead. // We browsed lots of bookstores including: La Chambre Claire, Librarie La Hune, and WHSmith.

Ten Days in Paris

There was macaroon sampling at Gérard Mulot, and Ladurée Royale. // Nice paper products - notebooks, clipboards, stationary and the like at Papier+ and Calligrane. // Browsed the quiche pans and copper pots at E.Dehillerin. // Walked up to the middle platform of the Eiffel Tower. // Had a simple and perfect "formula" lunch at Cuisine de Bar - your choice of tartine, salade du jour, and glass of chardonnay. Then next door to Poilâne. // Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson for August Sander exhibit. // Gift shopping at Ets Lion in Montmartre. // Gruyere buckwheat crepe with mushrooms, a drizzle of cream, and a pinch of Espelette pepper at Breizh Cafe (reservations required!) // Seeing Monet's Water Lilies (Nympheas) at the Musee de l'Orangerie, then later in the week, a day trip by train to Giverny to see his actual gardens. I can imagine during peak season this could be a mobbed, touristy nightmare, but we enjoyed ourselves. The village wasn't entirely overrun, and we had lunch at La Terrasse - a cute, little unassuming place with a menu of good ciders, crepe, and tarts. // Loved the Degas paintings upstairs at the Musée d'Orsay, a few rooms down from the Van Gogh crowds. // Stumbled on Kitchen while walking around one day - good, healthy eats. You choose from a board listing a daily juice, soup, salad, sandwich, stew, etc. We shared a 9-inch avocado futomaki roll, a simple sandwich, and a lentil and rice "stew" with roasted vegetables. Hit the spot. // Stocked up on easy-to-pack food items like spice blends, salts, mustards and sugars they don't have at home at La Grande Epicerie. // The Ferdinando Scianna and Ara Güler exhibits at the Museum Maison Europeenne de la photographie. // Queueing up at Berthillon for a nice custardy scoop of vanilla. // Diving into a jar labeled "prune sauvage", a treat from David. Limited edition, made from wild plums - it was the prettiest shade of rose, not too sweet, with a whisper of acidity, and a hint of floral in it.

Ten Days in Paris

What an amazing city, I felt like I could be there a year and barely put a dent in it. There was so much to see, people in the streets all the time - I feel lucky to have been able to spend that much time there. Thanks to all of you who offered up suggestions and stories about your experiences in Paris. Between you and Clotilde, and David, and Dorie (who I just missed by a couple days!), I felt like I had a thousand little angels whispering in my ear.

- A google map of all the Paris highlights.

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Comments

  • Awesome article! Hubby and I are going in a month, so I've been scouring sites for "real-people" lists of things to see/do. Thanks for the great info! also fyi - made your carrot soup again recently and loved it as much the second time as the first. That's such an easy, yummy recipe!

    Elizabeth
  • WOW looks like you had such an awesome time. The photos are great! Now you make me feel like catching the next flight to Paris!

    The Purple Foodie
  • Long time reader, and first time commenter. I had to write to say that since my extended visit to Paris in '04, where we rented an apt in the 6th for 2 weeks, I STILL have dreams about the macaroons at Gérard Mulot. Paris is SO Wonderful. I'm returning this Spring, and your post made me even more excited.

    Sara
  • Oh Paris. You are one of the world's magnificent cities! Jealous of your trip!

    The Duo Dishes
  • What a 10 days you had doing and seeing so many wonderful things. Sounds like you hit up many of my favorite places in the city of lights. I hope we will be seeing some Paris-inspired recipes now.

    Ciaochowlinda
  • Isn't it just the best place? I lived in the South of France for a year, 12 years ago, and went to Paris for the first time last April with my husband. I loved it so much, we hardly slept, and just enjoyed every little corner of the city. I have high hopes to move there permanently some day and I can't wait to take my boys when they're older. I want to it to them before they ever go on their own.

    Jannise Scott
  • Isn't it just the best place? I lived in the South of France for a year, 12 years ago, and went to Paris for the first time last April with my husband. I loved it so much, we hardly slept, and just enjoyed every little corner of the city. I have high hopes to move there permanently some day and I can't wait to take my boys when they're older. I want to it to them before they ever go on their own.

    Jannise Scott
  • I know you are not a vegetarian but also know you tend to be very vegetarian-aware... do you think being pescatarian in Paris would be difficult? I'm planning to go their on my honeymoon next year and a big part of that is for the food & wine - in your opinion, will it be a success or will i be so limited that i find myself disappointed??? HS: Hi Kristen, I am actually vegetarian, and Paris was no problem. Madrid on the other hand was a real challenge ;)

    kristen
  • Beautiful photos.

    Sarah
  • i feel the same way about rose bakery. thought that to myself when we were there a couple weeks back.

    michaela
  • Well, I certainly tried to live vicariously through your wonderful account of the trip. Minus the glorious array of fresh fruits, and vegetables. The flea markets, the macaroon sampling, and the best espresso. Oh dear, I need a moment.

    Marysol
  • Hi Heidi - glad you guys had a great trip. I leave in a week for a trip to Paris with my mom (her first trip outside the US) and we will definitely be taking your tips into consideration! Welcome Back :) Harmony

    Harmony
  • I don't get it. I go twice a year. I hate it. I just spent a month doing exactly the same things, yet I can't see the magic -- nor write about it. I do, however, enjoy reading about it. What's wrong with me? :-) HS: No offense taken - I don't expect everyone to enjoy or be interested in all the same things I am. I'm sure there are places you enjoy just as much as I enjoyed Paris.

    MamaShift
  • How cool! Maybe we should start a food bloggers house exchange network :).

    Michael Natkin
  • Hi Heidi. Love your site and so glad you had an awesome time in Paris. If you think you can reverse engineer the curried yellow lentil soup, I'd love to see it on your site!

    Anjali
  • I'm insanely envious! I spent a couple days in Paris when I was 14 and I loved it, but know I would appreciate it SO much more now (11 years later). Beautiful pictures (as usual!)

    Cate
  • Beautiful post as always. I feel as if I vicariously just took a mini trip to Paris :).

    Shannon
  • DId you also swap a couple of recipes with Clotilde ? I am glad you liked the city :)

    Dolce
  • I’m not sure how I stumbled upon your site, but a glad I did. I look forward to your posts and recipes. Thanks a lot.

    John
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