Ten Days in Paris

Ten Days in Paris

Update: 4/2/12 I'm consolidating my Paris information onto a more current page. It includes a map, a long list of places I enjoy in Paris, and links to other Paris references. Here's the link: Paris: Places I love.

It's 5:45 in the morning, the sky is starting to glow ever so slightly near the horizon, and all is still and quiet outside. I'm sitting on my sofa wide awake. My body thinks it's the middle of the day, and there is no way around it - I'm in for a couple more early mornings before I can shake this jet lag. So. I thought I'd make myself some tea, watch the sun come up, and take a bit of time to share my notes on Paris, before the details of this adventure start to slip my mind.

Ten Days in Paris

I mentioned a few weeks ago that Clotilde and I decided to swap apartments. She came to San Francisco while I went to Paris. Wayne and I spent ten days in Paris criss-crossing the city on foot and by subway, darting into patisseries, taking photographs, and sitting on benches in flower-lined city gardens. We ate well in Paris, and I found plenty to be inspired by in the little cafes serving up seasonal tarts, salads, crepes, and quiches.

We settled into Clotilde's lovely Montmartre apartment just short walk down the hill from the Sacré-Cœur. After the long flight Wayne and I unloaded our bags and walked five minutes to Rose Bakery for a late lunch. I'll tell you right now, I could eat there everyday for the rest of my life and be perfectly content. The curried yellow lentil soup I ordered hit just the right note that first rainy day in Paris. The rain cleared in the afternoon and we eventually walked up the hill to the Sacre Coeur. It was a nice (if not touristy) way to start our exploring. Paris at your feet, the sun threatening to set behind the Eiffel Tower off in the distance, Parisians lounging on the steps with wine in hand.

Ten Days in Paris

We then dove right in to the museums, cafes, and hussle-bustle of Paris. There were many things worth remembering about this trip, but I tried to condense it into a list of highlights - places I loved, great food I tasted, the best things I did. Hopefully the list can serve as a bit of inspiration if you find yourself in Paris sometime soon.

Paris highlights: Shopping for seasonal gems at the Saturday morning President Wilson Market - fresh hazelnuts, currants, flame-tinted grapes, pretty flowers and piles of golden chanterelles. // Cartier-Bresson exhibit at the Musee d'Art Modern // Planet Parr exhibit at Jeu De Paume. // Picnic lunch & people watching at the Luxembourg Gardens. // Good pizza with arugula, frosty beer, and friendly service at La Briciola in the Marais. // Browsing hundreds of stalls of books, chandeliers, and vintage wares at the Sunday flea markets in Clignancourt - I should also mention we had a tasty Breton-style buckwheat crepe with egg and a bit of cheese, just down the road a few steps from the market Dauphine stalls. Highly recommended if you need a quick bit of shopping sustenance. // Stopped into Mariage Freres for a few tea-related gifts. // Best fallafel sandwich ever at L'as du Fallafel in Le Marais - enjoyed while standing in a nearby doorway. // Best espresso we had in Paris was close to L'as du Fallafel at Pozzetto (great pistachio gelato too). // Seeing Matisse's Nu aux oranges at the Centre Pompidou, then snapping pics of the Paris rooftops from the escalator and finishing things off with a visit to the easy-to-miss Atelier Brancusi down below. // Walking the city with David was a real treat- bought some rosemary flecked fougasse and pain à l'ancienne at Du Pain et des Idées. Dinner was at Le Verre Volle, a charming little spot with a handful of tables - just my speed. Plenty of seasonal deliciousness, cheese, and wine all around. You can pull bottles from the wall and drink them with dinner, or purchase them to go instead. // We browsed lots of bookstores including: La Chambre Claire, Librarie La Hune, and WHSmith.

Ten Days in Paris

There was macaroon sampling at Gérard Mulot, and Ladurée Royale. // Nice paper products - notebooks, clipboards, stationary and the like at Papier+ and Calligrane. // Browsed the quiche pans and copper pots at E.Dehillerin. // Walked up to the middle platform of the Eiffel Tower. // Had a simple and perfect "formula" lunch at Cuisine de Bar - your choice of tartine, salade du jour, and glass of chardonnay. Then next door to Poilâne. // Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson for August Sander exhibit. // Gift shopping at Ets Lion in Montmartre. // Gruyere buckwheat crepe with mushrooms, a drizzle of cream, and a pinch of Espelette pepper at Breizh Cafe (reservations required!) // Seeing Monet's Water Lilies (Nympheas) at the Musee de l'Orangerie, then later in the week, a day trip by train to Giverny to see his actual gardens. I can imagine during peak season this could be a mobbed, touristy nightmare, but we enjoyed ourselves. The village wasn't entirely overrun, and we had lunch at La Terrasse - a cute, little unassuming place with a menu of good ciders, crepe, and tarts. // Loved the Degas paintings upstairs at the Musée d'Orsay, a few rooms down from the Van Gogh crowds. // Stumbled on Kitchen while walking around one day - good, healthy eats. You choose from a board listing a daily juice, soup, salad, sandwich, stew, etc. We shared a 9-inch avocado futomaki roll, a simple sandwich, and a lentil and rice "stew" with roasted vegetables. Hit the spot. // Stocked up on easy-to-pack food items like spice blends, salts, mustards and sugars they don't have at home at La Grande Epicerie. // The Ferdinando Scianna and Ara Güler exhibits at the Museum Maison Europeenne de la photographie. // Queueing up at Berthillon for a nice custardy scoop of vanilla. // Diving into a jar labeled "prune sauvage", a treat from David. Limited edition, made from wild plums - it was the prettiest shade of rose, not too sweet, with a whisper of acidity, and a hint of floral in it.

Ten Days in Paris

What an amazing city, I felt like I could be there a year and barely put a dent in it. There was so much to see, people in the streets all the time - I feel lucky to have been able to spend that much time there. Thanks to all of you who offered up suggestions and stories about your experiences in Paris. Between you and Clotilde, and David, and Dorie (who I just missed by a couple days!), I felt like I had a thousand little angels whispering in my ear.

- A google map of all the Paris highlights.


I send an email roughly once a week, sharing new recipes and cooking inspiration. - xo heidi


I’m not sure how I stumbled upon your site, but a glad I did. I look forward to your posts and recipes. Thanks a lot.


DId you also swap a couple of recipes with Clotilde ?
I am glad you liked the city :)


Beautiful post as always. I feel as if I vicariously just took a mini trip to Paris :).


I'm insanely envious! I spent a couple days in Paris when I was 14 and I loved it, but know I would appreciate it SO much more now (11 years later). Beautiful pictures (as usual!)


Hi Heidi. Love your site and so glad you had an awesome time in Paris. If you think you can reverse engineer the curried yellow lentil soup, I'd love to see it on your site!


How cool! Maybe we should start a food bloggers house exchange network :).

Michael Natkin

I don't get it. I go twice a year. I hate it. I just spent a month doing exactly the same things, yet I can't see the magic -- nor write about it. I do, however, enjoy reading about it. What's wrong with me? :-)

HS: No offense taken - I don't expect everyone to enjoy or be interested in all the same things I am. I'm sure there are places you enjoy just as much as I enjoyed Paris.


Hi Heidi - glad you guys had a great trip. I leave in a week for a trip to Paris with my mom (her first trip outside the US) and we will definitely be taking your tips into consideration!
Welcome Back :)


Well, I certainly tried to live vicariously through your wonderful account of the trip. Minus the glorious array of fresh fruits, and vegetables. The flea markets, the macaroon sampling, and the best espresso.

Oh dear, I need a moment.


Oh - I'm so jealous! And what beautiful pictures too, glad you got to go and enjoy yourselves!

tabitha (From Single to Married)

i feel the same way about rose bakery. thought that to myself when we were there a couple weeks back.


Beautiful photos.


I know you are not a vegetarian but also know you tend to be very vegetarian-aware... do you think being pescatarian in Paris would be difficult? I'm planning to go their on my honeymoon next year and a big part of that is for the food & wine - in your opinion, will it be a success or will i be so limited that i find myself disappointed???

HS: Hi Kristen, I am actually vegetarian, and Paris was no problem. Madrid on the other hand was a real challenge ;)


Isn't it just the best place? I lived in the South of France for a year, 12 years ago, and went to Paris for the first time last April with my husband. I loved it so much, we hardly slept, and just enjoyed every little corner of the city. I have high hopes to move there permanently some day and I can't wait to take my boys when they're older. I want to it to them before they ever go on their own.

Jannise Scott

What a 10 days you had doing and seeing so many wonderful things. Sounds like you hit up many of my favorite places in the city of lights. I hope we will be seeing some Paris-inspired recipes now.


Oh Paris. You are one of the world's magnificent cities! Jealous of your trip!

The Duo Dishes

Long time reader, and first time commenter. I had to write to say that since my extended visit to Paris in '04, where we rented an apt in the 6th for 2 weeks, I STILL have dreams about the macaroons at Gérard Mulot. Paris is SO Wonderful. I'm returning this Spring, and your post made me even more excited.


WOW looks like you had such an awesome time. The photos are great! Now you make me feel like catching the next flight to Paris!

The Purple Foodie

Awesome article! Hubby and I are going in a month, so I've been scouring sites for "real-people" lists of things to see/do. Thanks for the great info! also fyi - made your carrot soup again recently and loved it as much the second time as the first. That's such an easy, yummy recipe!


Hi Heidi, I'm so glad you guys had a good trip! El Sal simply doesn't have the same magic as Paris but...I'm here! Next trip- visit me! much love.

HS: Hi Meg! What a nice surprise to see you here. Can we go to the beach if we come visit?!?


Your trip looks as if it was amazing. I love Paris. My hubbie and I were there for part of our honeymoon in 2003. The colours, so vivid, the food divine. One of our favourite meals was a loaf of French bread, some brie, fresh strawberries, chocolate pieces and a bottle of red wine on our hotel bed. Simple. Bliss.
Let me know if you ever want to do a swap to Vancouver, BC. We'd be happy to accomodate!


Amazing, just like your food! Thanks for all of your posts.


Paris looks lovely and I love the colours in your photos! What type of camera do you use? My husband has been hinting that he wants a better camera for Christmas and I have no clue where to start.

HS: Hi Katie, I did a bit of a post about photography here where I list the cameras I tend to use. The short answer is that I tend to mix it up a bit - film & digital.


Thank you for sharing all the places to visit! (By the way, the link to Rose Bakery is not working.) I'm looking forward to see more photos from your Paris trip!

HS: ooh Thanks - I'll look into it.

Kitchen M

J'espère que vous avez apprécié votre séjour à Paris. Grand post et la photographie.


J'espère que vous avez apprécié votre séjour à Paris. Grand post et la photographie.


Thank you for sharing your adventures and the highlights of your trip with us! And with useful information and tips as well! I'll definitely make my way to Paris someday and seek out what you've recommended!

What a treasure trove your site is. I've pointed some friends to your website and they are beginning to explore what you have to offer too. Keep being fabulous! :)


If you're missing Paris....

lafleurdeparis.blogspot.com !!!

Thanks for your fabulous recipes, they're keeping me well-fed over here in Paris !


Thanks for the post. I'll keep it for my third trip next year. There's also a great shop that sells culinary books. Their pastry section alone made me want to hole up there for a few days.


Heidi, Thanks for sharing your pictures and stories. My husband and I spent a week in Paris last month on our way back to Cairo. There just aren't enough flowery words to describe it! Can you tell me about the kind of camera you use? I love the way your pictures look kind of old, beautiful!

HS: Thanks for the kind words Jenna - have a look at this page. I talk a bit about photography and the cameras I use.


You are making me hungry for a return trip. We went in 1996 and we loved seeing Giverny and the Musee D'Orsay. Thanks for sharing your experiences.

Patty Erwin

Oh, that sound like a very nice trip! :) Wish I lived in an "exotic" place so I could change apartment with someone too. Huskvarna, Sweden is not THAT exotic! lol I've ever been to Paris, but would be nice to be able to some time!

I enjoyed your nice post a lot! Thanks! :)

Katarina Johansson

If you took photos like you cook I'd have to start referring to you as Heidi Avendon.


it was nice to read about my hometown,Paris is the most beautiful city in the world

violette kogut

i love your site...especially your photography! you have such a wonderful eye.


Thank you for sharing your trip.
I often feel homesick regarding France, even though I've lived most of my life throughout the United States.
Ever since I spent a semester in Aix-en-Provence, then lived a short time with a boyfriend in Paris and then Lille (near Belgium), I have felt as though France were my long lost home.
I haven't returned since 2000, but often dream (sometimes in French) that I am back.
--I envy you your trip, but I'm happy to see someone else enjoying France and am happy that Berthillon is still there.


Been to Paris quite a few times. One thing you didn't mention was the alleged unfriendliness of the Paris people. We did not all all find that was so. People were entirely gracious, except for one waiter, and we mixed our order up so bad!
He probably had to pay for it.

Lou Parris

Thank you for sharing. I am especially looking forward to Madrid details since I too will soon be visiting Madrid. Safe Travels


Heidi, I want to let you know that since I have your emails, every single day I had something different and nutricious. Starting with my favorite, the edamame soup...I enjoy your emails, your experiences and above all I enjoy your knowledge...because of you I am a better cook and is a true thing.....Cooking and learning from you is worth it.



Your trip in Paris looks amazing!

Simply Life

My girlfreind and I went to Paris and anytime I see anything written on it,brings fond memories of our time touring the "The Bright Light City".Especially the great bakerys and great coffee.Most of all,the Great Art in this city.
Love it all,want to go back.


Hello Heidi,

it's nice to see you in Paris. I hope you enjoyed it as it looks great! Thanks for the tips.


Oh Heidi! Thank you for sharing so much of your trip. It's been forever since I've been there, but your pictures bring back that soft autumn light. Beautiful.


Wow, these photos and stories are amazing. I somehow missed your earlier post about Paris, though I lived outside of Paris for seven months. My first thought for you would have been, "You have to try L'As du Falafel." My favorite was to go eat the falafel on the Seine nearby, but the doorway was always an option as well, and one I loved. And my favorite tourist attraction in Paris is Le Sacre Coeur, so your trip just put me at "home" as I sit in my office. Thank you for sharing so much of yourself. Your recipes and photos are so beautiful because they are real, because they come from your heart. Thank you.


A veggie version of a Croque Monsieur now that would be fab :)


Thanks for the response Heidi - glad to hear it was easy to be vegetarian in paris!!! (and sorry about thinking you were not veg - i always get that piece confused between you and simply recipes as you are next to eachother on my google page!)


What a glut of goodness! I am in a lock-step phase of life right now, raising kids, pinching pennies. Glad I can experience the world through folks like you.

The Leftoverist

Thanks for renewing one's love for Paris: the pairing of references to art and the table
inscribe the eye and the palate (what hold everything) to one's heart.


Oh my gosh, I actually *am* going to Paris! For the first time! Next week! And staying in Montmartre! This couldn't have come at a better time. Will print this out...


SUCH a lovely recap. Thank you for sharing. I haven't been to Paris since the summer of 2003, and dearly miss it.


Sounds magnifique! I also really loved //Seeing Monet's Water Lilies (Nympheas) at the Musee de l'Orangerie, then later in the week, a day trip by train to Giverny to see his actual gardens. // a little embarrassed to admit, but seeing that you liked it too makes me say it proudly.

RookieMom Heather

Heidi, I read your blog every day, I love it, it's like a daily visit with my foodie friend and it makes my trips to the market an adventure. I am so thrilled that you have a post about Paris as I have just started planning a trip for next Spring! Thanks for sharing the exquisite photos, mental images and tastes of your trip! Magnifique!


And now I want to runaway to Paris...
You may have inspired a vanishing act. Michaela? Michaela?
poof. gone.
It was so lovely of you to take us along...

The Gardener's Eden

Ahhh Paris. The name of my firstborn daughter (15) and my favorite city in the world. You hit some great spots. Love reading your blog!


Great that you had a fantastic time... but, who doesn't when the setting is Paris? :-)

I am revving up my personal engine, because I might be there to celebrate our 10th wedding anniversary next March! Since we met in Paris, I guess it is the best place to have a second honeymoon!

Looking forward to reading more of your adventures!


We always tell people going to Paris to go to L'As Du Falafel. No other falafel will do after that. My husband cradled a container of their hot sauce in his lap the entire flight home.Lovely post.


I've been following your blog for about two months and have tried several recipes. But after reading your Paris notes I now understand that we are kindred souls. Always when I'm there one of my first stops is the Wilson Market. Last May in two weeks I made it to that market three times for just the reasons you mentioned - and we stayed in the Marais near As du Falafel! Did you get to Sasha Finkelshtajn'swhere they best apple strudel ever is sold? Such a glorious city. I'm vegetarian and always manage to eat my way through the city.

HS: Hi Jane - I missed Sasha's, but it will go top of list for my next trip!


You are such an amazing writer Heidi...and bring such value to this World...you inspire me to write...I am in India at the moment, visiting my daughter and grand-children...
Glad you enjoyed Paris!

Isabelle Gagnon

Hey Heidi, I have been to Paris and I think it is the most romantic city in the world!! Can you share with us some easy to cook Parisian recipes please ? coz I always thought Parisian cooking is so eclectic that it would take years to master it ! I love your blog, I think you are the best food writer,reason you make the cooking experience so interesting not intimidating!! I wait for your posts.


Oh you are killing me! :) We were there a year ago almost to the day and stayed right off of Rue Abbesses in Montmartre. Love the report and pics! So glad you had a fanastic time. It really would be hard not to!



Just wanted to drop you a quick note to let you know how much I enjoy your website. Your descriptions are just as scrumptious as the recipes! I discovered your site maybe two years ago, and have often used your recipes as my "new" recipe for "New Food Friday," a weekly celebration of unfamiliar or interesting dishes with my culinary-inclined friends. Sadly, NFF is on hiatus currently, as I'm in Hungary for a year, but I hope to start it up again when I return. Anyway, thanks for the lovely photos, delicious prose, and tasty treats.


Bon Jour Heidi,

You just made me want to run away from everyday chores and I love your website and all my family and friends are on it too.
I have tried most of the recipes you posted and ooh lala they are just delicious. I say to all bon appetite to all who have tried the recipes and photos you share with us.
Thank you so much:)


Dear Heidi, My daughter introduced me to your site , (who in turn got to know of it from friends) when she spent a year in Paris. I like your recipes very because they're vegetarian and so healthy.
Can you reconstruct a few French recipes for your readers? Lentil and rice stew with roasted vegetables sounded lovely to me.

HS: Hi Shanti. I have a bunch of ideas and recipe inspiration in my little Paris notebook. Can't wait to get into the kitchen to experiment (and eventually share with all of you)...


I'm new to your site, I really love it, thank you.
You really went to all the good places in Paris, it seems you have the best guides around : )
The picture of you on the bridge looking out over the Seine is so beautiful.


this is just perfect timing!!!
long time reader and so so so happy you have just been to paris as i shall be there in 3 weeks.
always grateful for vege recommendations when traveling. thank you!!!


Great article. After living in Paris for so many years, it is wonderful to see fresh articles on this fabulous city with new ideas of places I have not yet tested. Rose Bakery is great. They now have a 2nd location in the Marais.

Erica Berman

Hi Heidi! Having come across ur site was such a finding! Lov ur veggie recipes, beign a vegetarian in Brazil is a challenge... the photos in Paris were a delight! Enjoy, cos i am...

clelia moraes

Hi Heidi

Loved reading about your trip to Paris. Brought back lots of memories of when I lived there for five years in the eighties before coming to Abu Dhabi. So glad you got to Giverney and saw the real nypheas. We took an American visitor there and had a magical day - few people and brilliant sunshine.

Never found falafels, though! However, we can get some fantastic ones here in a restaurant called Lebanese Flower, where you just drive up and the waiters come to take your order and deliver roast chicken, fresh Arabic bread, garlic paste, tahini, pickles and salad right to your car.

You certainly did a lot in ten days.



Heidi, it sounds like you and Wayne had the best time and you managed to pack so much and so many wonderful things into your short stay. I wish had been in town when you were. Next time ... I hope.

HS: It was great Dorie. Next time for sure. Or we can meet in the middle - NYC is always fun too. But not quite in the same way ;)


Takes my breath away just reading about all that your senses took in during your stay. I would love to imagine myself there someday and only hope to enjoy. Thanks for sharing the highlights! You surely can't wait to return.


This just reminds me to plan a trip there WITH my husband. We've both been separately, before meeting, but must go back together. There's such an artistic touch to everything there and a *must savor* air that I need a dose of every now and then. A huge fan of Degas, I also loved that part of the d'Orsay. My last trip there, I wandered through the Rodin gardens, and it instantly became one of my favorite things in Paris. From what you wrote, I think you'd be a big fan too. Thanks for the bakery and cafe recommendations -- I hope to put them to use someday soon. I wonder how toddler-friendly Paris could be?! We may be waiting a few years.... :)

Thanks for your great list!


So glad to see you're back. Thanks for all the great tips and of course the great photos. I especially like the one of you on the bridge.



This is a beautiful commentary on your experience in Paris. I agree, the city is magical, especially for a foodie and photographer such as yourself. It's a good illustration of why so many Americans are Francophiles.

It's too bad that you missed David by a few days. Are you going to be able to meet him in San Francisco? I think it's funny that in addition to you swapping apartments, it's almost as if David and you swapped cities.

HS: I saw David in Paris (and yesterday in SF!), but unfortunately missed Dorie. And Clotilde and I missed each other in transit :/

I love your blog!


What a lovely site!
And I am completely jealous of your trip to Paris!
I have always wanted to go!


Rose Bakery!! I dashed for my copy of "Breakfast, Lunch, Tea -- Rose Bakery" (Phaidon) -- alas, no curried lentil soup. But I found "Celeriac and Porcini", "Cold Beetroot with a Hot Potato" (!), "Crushed Potato, Celery and Herb", "Green Bean and Almond," and finally "Spiced chickpea and Lemon" which sounds "curry-y." I'll let you know. But thanks for reminding me of this little treasure that's been sitting on the shelf.

B.J. Lewis

I had the pleasure of visiting Giverny, also in the fall, and it was absolutely spectacular. The kitchen was to die for and I wanted desperately to set up shop and start cooking. Thanks for bringing back some memories :)
Thyme To Cook Personal Chef Service and Nutrition Coaching


I was just in Paris and enjoyed many of the same sights, sounds, and tastes! What a wonderful city and a great time of year to visit. The highlight for me was a sunny Sunday afternoon on the Quai of the Seine on Ile San Luis - with a friend, a book, a baguette, figs, and a block of comte - fresh from the market.


I just returned from 8 days in Paris, and blogged each day from the beautiful city of lights.
You can see my posts and yummy food on my blog.
I made your hazelnut green bean salad upon my return, it was a refreshing change to duck confit and all the quiche I ate!

stacey snacks

PS I also tried L'as du Fallafel and was blown away. One of the top 10 things I have ever eaten. I had the vegetarian for 5 euros.
I did a complete post just on the Marais and the wonderful baked goods in that neighborhood! Loved it all!

stacey snacks


I found your site a few months go while searching for a carrot & ginger recipe, and I just fell in love with it! I am always consulting your recipes for new vegetarian ideas and it's very inspiring. So far, I have made the carmalized onion dip, egg salad and the carmelized tofu and brussel sprouts. All excellent!

Your account of Paris was great to read as well. I was there over New Years and tried to fit as much in as I could for the three days we had there. But if I go again, I will for sure head to some of the lttle cafes you've mentioned and I will have to try the falafel!

Thanks for a great site! :)



Reading this post has made me feel more nostalgic for the month I spent in Paris in September/October 1997 than I'd felt at any moment since. Thank you.


You've sent me down Memory Lane. One so seldom reads about the area around the Sacre Coeur but in 1955 I was living there and my favorite restaurant was ZUT's, on the corner just below the church. The menu was on a black board, Zut was a welcoming redhead who greeted one as a long lost friend after your first visit, the bread was fresh and the wine basic...oh to be back again. Thanks for the memory jolt.

Jess Andrews

What lovely photos. The ones you take of each other remind me of keepsakes I have of my grandparents when they were young. The quality of them is so ... classic!

I've been to France but not to Paris, sadly. I'm so jealous!


I love your blog! I have just one addition, a restaurant I can highly recommend, it's a must for me when staying in Paris: http://lerefectoire.free.fr/
I'm happy to try your recommandations on my next trip!


oh heidi. i've just found you (thru mav).
how have you hidden from my view for so long?!
i am looking forward to much exploring here at 101.
lorna xo

HS: Welcome Lorna! I am loving your diana shots.


Weren't Monet's gardens wonderful? My mother and I were JUST there this week - hard to describe how vibrant the colors are and the pictures don't do the grounds justice. We, too, found that there were just the right amount of people... we certainly didn't have it to ourselves but it was tolerable. I'm recommending it as a stop for anyone in the area. Glad that someone else has had that experience :-)


Heidi (et Mara)- I echo your sentiments on Monet's house and garden and La Terrasse. We spent a magical - and uncrowded- weekday there in June. I will never forget the view from his bedroom. Breathtaking.

This post is making its rounds among expats and lovers of Paris-- and it's bringing back great memories. Thanks for taking us all back.

Kim (@ Paper Apron)

Very Nice pictures. Very nice blog!


I just spent the weekend showing a friend around Paris and we did practically none of what you did! But then, we work in construction and we took the "architecture" approach rather than artisanal like you - and I'm sure there are 1,000 further flavours to the city! Thanks for the tips, I can't wait for the next guest and to try Paris through your lense.

Also, thanks for introducing me to Clothilde's marvellous C&Z a couple of years ago!



Your trip sounds wonderful, and brings back fun memories from our recent trip--loved Laduree in the afternoon for tea and macaroons, and the buckwheat crepes were a new taste for me... will there be any recipes coming out of the trip??

And did you and Clotilde ever talk about doing a blog swap while you were gone? That could have been fun!


Hi Heidi, I have been a longtime follower of your blog, I am leaving for Paris for the 1st time in two weeks, I am really looking forward to trying out some of the places you mentioned!

Thanks for taking the time to make a list.


Wow! So glad I googled veggie burgers today. Your blog site is awesome! Paris is a great way to spend vacation. The gelato is just as good as Italy. :-)


I spent a year in Paris as a nanny when I left school. That was 10 years ago now (!). Reading your beautiful post bought it all back and makes me want to pack my bags and move back there again.
Thanks for sharing all your thoughts.


Lovely post and photos. Thanks for mentioning
Gerard Mulot...I've heard about him several times and now KNOW I must check him out on the next trip.


I thoroughly enjoyed reading this post. I've been a fan of your site for just a month - each recipe looks absolutely delicious. I'm going to Paris myself next week... first time. I was so happy to see some places you visited were on my short list. I have a feeling it won't be my first trip.

Thanks for sharing your experience, photos, and Google map.

The MessyChef

Have you been to the cookware store called E. Dehillerin? It was opened in 1820 and is one of my favorite stops there. The metro stop is Les Halles at the Louvre and the address is 18 et 20, rue Coquilliere. Enjoy if you make it there!


Ah, you make it sound SO wonderful, except I haven't traveled more than 100 miles from homebase in the past 40 years. I'm such a homebody. I'm glad your time has been wonderful! Memories are made of this!


i am glad you enjoyed yourself!



PLease let us know what to do with chanterelles. Any recipes would be appreciated. I live in chanterelle country (Latvia) and have run out of ideas what to do with these delicious mushrooms. Usually they end up in mushroom cream sauce, soup, lasagne. Thank you!


Well, if I wasn't already itching to get back to Paris, this has given me the bug. I love the idea of an apartment switch... Maybe I need to find a friend in a far off place and do the same...

Cat @ Fresh

Fresh hazlenuts...oooh I love this time of year.

Got any recipes to share that would compliment the creamy-sweetness of fresh hazlenuts? Apart from the obvious crack-and-crunch :)


Paris is a very lovely city. I was there for many times on holiday. Enjoy the french atmosphere! Have a nice time!


Follow-up on Rose's Bakery cookbook, (Breakfast, Lunch, Tea). I made the Spicey Chickpea Soup yesterday-- a winner!

There is a photo of their lunch menu in the cookbook, and there is the curried lentil soup. Any chance you could get the recipe?

B.J. Lewis

You look so cute! It was fun to meet you this weekend in San Francisco. I'm really excited about this post because we're doing 10 days there in the Spring! Glad you had a great trip!

Alice Q. Foodie

Hello, Heidi--
I told you that you would love Paris! How could you not? What a beautiful city. What a fabulous trip you had. Thank you for sharing your experience with us. I hope to go back again. Hope you will, too!


It's been a long time since I've been to Paris and your post whetted my appetite again for that amazing city. It sounds as though you had a fabulous trip!

Cookin' Canuck

Thank you for sharing your wonderful trip. Ah memories...I returned from a two week trip on September 3rd..I went Cat sitting for a lady I met back in April..!

You are right, it would take a long time to put a dent in the places to visit.

I have just blogged about Montparnasse Tower and Peter in Paris, has lived in Paris for 35 years and never been up there, I find that amazing.


It was so nice of you to show your trip to Paris to us. I too always wanted to go but can never find the time so this is the next best thing. Maybe someday I can travel the train from London and enjoy the sites too. Continue your journey to travel before you really have to work:)

Danielle Harris

Despite watching the Holiday, I did not think house/apartment swapping as common practice. Its quite a curious thing but it seems to be working out well for you.


What a great testimony to house swapping (not to mention a delicious recount of your trip), Seems that home exchange takes the stress out of travel -- gives you a place to call home (with a kitchen!) -- and experience a new place as a local. My 6-week exchange in the 12th arrondissement was singularly the inspiration for InventedCity. Thanks!


Heidi, it was soooo great to meet you this weekend as you have been such an inspiration to me! I'm glad we were able to chat at the Blogher cocktail party and just want to remind you not to give away your name tag again :-)

And by the way, this was a great post, I loved hearing about your Parisian adventures and your house swap with Clotilde.

Hope you are well!



I loved reading about your wonderful trip! And the mention of the lentil soup at Rose Bakery sent me digging for a recipe. (sadly it's not in their book...) Instead I ended up making the Chunky Lentil Soup recipe from your book for dinner tonight and it was so yummy! I love butternut squash so much and I almost didn't notice it on the ingredient list at first glance. (it's not in the title or index) Glad I did! I will make this again (and again) I know. Thank you!
Also, glad you enjoyed Mariage Freres!
And, I made your power bars this weekend - they were awesome too.


I found your site from the Times article. I am looking forwrad to future posts.



What a wonderful post. It brought back so many memories of my trip to Paris. Can't wait to go back, hopefully soon.

Cathy at Wives with Knives

Love the info on Paris, Thanks

I went to the Normandy beaches this summer and fell in love with the area and the food!


I was in Paris in June, and felt as if I could have eaten their sandwiches-mostly for the crusty bread- for the next 6 months and always feel happy and satisified! I have enjoyed your blog so much, that it inspired me to create my own. So, thank you! From Chicago :-)


Thanks for the dreamy visuals and the taste bud tour! I am newly a east-coaster(Baltimore), previously a native to SF. I just went to NYC and had a food-centric weekend that has inspired me to write about it. Maybe Blog?
I am a chef/artist....and looking for my next food related work here on the east side. Hopefully involving all my passions! Your photography and love for cooking is inspiring in the way you merge both, I strive to find that balance between painting and cooking...
Thanks again!


On the topic of 'la France', a perfect recipe to complent that would be a classic 'poule au pot', the utlimate comfort food on a rainy day...

Here's my take on it: http://kristelskitchen.wordpress.com/2009/09/28/backtoschool/

Kristel's Kitchen

I have been reading most of your adventureous trips and recipes. Amazing!.I've been to Paris once and wish could come back one day.
I wonder when you are visiting Indonesia? We've got varieties of dishes you might try and love.


Perhaps someone could answer a question I've had for many years about a lemon meringue pie (tart?) that I had on Rue Rivoli at some tiny place. Rather like a regular pie compressed to a third the height with 4 times the lemon intensity. Question is whether its typical there, and whether there's a recipe for it anywhere.


I don't know who you are and how your site is on my email. I'm glad it is. Paris looks beautiful and sounds beautiful. I've never been so thank you for such a wonderful look at Paris through your eyes.


Thank you for bringing back memories. J'adore Paris and of course France because I was born there and it will always be home. Thank you for all the lovely comments from all your readers, it warms my heart. Also thank you so very much for all your wonderful healthy recipes. Best regards,


I was just checking for the mail I deleted in my google account, and saw this posting above that said, Ten Days in Paris- 101 Cookbooks". Well I love Paris even though Ive never been , I love the introinto this segment, especially, it makes me want to go to Paris even more, it sounds so breathtaking!
I usually dont leave comments but thisone was an exception. This was the first time I saw this too, so I was glad to stumble onto it. Thank you so much for that piece on Paris!!!


you and W look like models. oui, oui!


Truly one of the most beautiful cities in the world. You captured it perfectly. Bien fait!

Tina dela Rosa

I really enjoy your recipes. Your trip sounded wonderful. Thanks for all the posts.


next time, you'll visit Paris, let me know & i'll give you a list of great places to visit (yes, there's still s'more to enjoy !)...
for instance, try the wonderful restaurant L'Office, 3 rue Richer, 75009, for a delightful & creative food or Chez Michel, rue de Belzunce, 75010, for a real Breton yummy meal.
for those who eat meat, go to Racines, Passage des Panoramas, 75002, and have a taste of lardo di colonatta.


The street you are pictured on, is that Rue Troyon? I went to Paris for the first time in May, and I stayed in a boutique hotel on that street. I realized that Guy Savoy was right across the street one night, easy to miss and a delight to discover...though being able to eat there is out of my league...for now.


Thank you for posting your Paris notes. It brought back wonderful memories of my week in Paris a few years ago... I can picture it all. Lucky you... to stay in Montmartre... ah... will have to plan another trip.

And always enjoy your recipes. Thanks!


You are a brilliant writer. What a pleasure to read what you have to say. BTW, are you an English major, or a teacher? My son sent me this site... we are both in love with that city, and are lucky enough to speak French. Your photography is enviable... great job!

Carole Traster-Wilk

Am back to visiting your site after a brief distraction of life....your Paris writing was lovely. As a former writer myself I thoroughly enjoyed the images you conjured up from your trip. And, I must say I loved Mark's idea of a food blogger's house exchange - anyone want to visit Vermont?


j'aime bien fait la cuisine aussi!


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