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Moroccan Preserved Lemons Recipe
June 23, 2005 | by Heidi | Filed under
Chez Panisse Fruit
It's not every day that a friend brings you a grocery bag filled with Meyer lemons picked earlier that day, still warm from the sunshine (or from being in the hot trunk of her car). Casey also treated me to a huge bag of unshelled walnuts harvested from a tree in her family's orchard.
I was delighted, and spent then night carefully considering what I might do with the lemons. The walnuts were not a problem - we've been cracking the shells, making a mess, and snacking on them for the last twenty-four hours. The lemons? I stared at them for a while, picked up a few - scratch-and sniffed them, tossed them from one hand to the other, and generally sized them up for a while. They aren't like the lemons you find in most grocery stores. This batch varied wildly in size, some are twice as big as others. They also vary in color - some are a warm yellow-orange shade, while the larger ones seemed slightly less ripe sporting a bright, vibrant yellow skin - I chose the lookers for the photo.
I don't think I've ever had so many lemons in the house at once and was a bit paralyzed by the possibilities. Occasionally, when I need a little creative inspiration or if I come home with an ingredient from the market that I'm not entirely sure what to do with, I turn to one of two books - Chez Panisse Fruits or Chez Panisse Vegetables. They really stand out from the pack and here's why. Aside from the wonderful collection of recipes in each book, much of the real value comes at the beginning of each section. The books are broken out by type of fruit (or vegetable). For example apples, citron, mandarins, pineapples, etc. Before you delve into the recipes you get an overview of the ingredient at hand. Each overview includes essential information about how an ingredient is grown, what makes it special and distinctive, a description of what it might taste like at its peak, how to identify the one(s) to purchase, what varieties to look for, when they are in season, etc. All the information you need to know to start getting comfortable with an ingredient is provided, allowing your creativity to then really take charge and blossom.
While brosing through Chez Panisse Fruit, a recipe for a Meyer Lemon Relish caught my attention. It is supposed to be a winter relish, perfect to make when all the colorful citrus floods into the market - but, when life gives you lemons......in this case it is time to preserve them, and then make them into some relish. If I start preserving my lemons now, there will be plenty of olive, shallot, and preserved lemon relish ready in time for peak BBQ season. I'll also have plenty of the preserved lemons left over to explore other recipes featuring these distinctive velventy pickled gems.
Preserved lemons are more flexible than you might think. I've enjoyed them on the following things, some more traditional than others - all highly recommended; thin-crust wood fire oven pizzas (as a garnish/topping), in various slow-cooked tagines, in cous cous and a few other whole grain salads, and as an accent in a tomato based panzanella. Paula Wolfert has a Spicy Potato Tagine with Preserved Lemon and Olives in her Slow Mediterranean Kitchen that I look forward to trying. I bought a tagine as a wedding present for a friend of mine, and will try to convince him (most likely through some sort of bribe) to loan it back to me for a weekend.
Moroccan Preserved Lemon Recipe
"Our favorite lemons to preserve are the thinner-skinned, sweeter Meyer lemons, but Eureka lemons work equally well. Preserved lemons make a wonderful condiment that adds a uniquely Moroccan flavor wherever lemon is called for. To make them, all that is required is lemons and salt. Additive-free kosher salt is especially recommended in this recipe because it seems to dissolve more quickly.
Wash the lemons well. While holding them over a plate to catch the juice, make four deep longitudinal cuts, evenly spaced around the lemon, effectively dividing it into four sections attached at the ends. Don't make the cuts so long (going into the ends) that the lemons separates into pieces; you want to keep the lemons whole. (Alternatively, cut the lemons into quarters, leaving the attached only at the stem end.) Pack the cuts generously with salt. Put a couple of tablespoons of salt in the bottom of a jar and pack the lemons in layers, sprinkling a thin layer of salt between each layer of lemons. Push the lemons down firmly to pack them tightly and to help express some of their juice. Finish with a final layer of salt. Pour any juices that collected on the plate when the lemons were cut. Cover the jar tightly. Leave at room temperature for a few days, monitoring the level of liquid in the jar. The lemons should be submerged in juice after a few days. If they are not, ad more lemon juice. The lemons will be ready to eat in a few weeks and will keep for up to a year. They do not absolutely require refrigeration, but we always keep them in the refrigerator at the restaurant."
Chez Panisse Fruit by Alice Waters (Harper Collins, May, 2002) - reprinted with permission
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Renee said:I have a jar of preserved lemons in my pantry that I made this past winter. You have reminded me of them at just the right time. I am having some people over for dinner Sunday and will be making some Moroccan dishes for them. I love the idea of preserved lemons, and even made some a few years ago. I didn't know what to do with them then and ended up throwing them out after a couple of years living in the fridge. Since then, I have been cooking more Moroccan/Meditteranean food and need to give my lemons a try.
When Meyer lemons were available this past winter, I made a lemon pudding with them, which was divine. The recipe called for folding egg whites into the mixture, which created a cakelike layer on top and the pudding on the bottom. We had the pudding with whipped cream and a truffle on top. So simple, decadent, and good.
Also, I wanted to tell you about elderflowers. They are blooming here in South Carolina right now. My husband and I went blackberry picking at a farm last Sunday where they also have elderberry bushes. So, we got some flower heads, and I made a simple syrup with them. I am so excited! I now have about three cups of elderflower syrup and can't wait to serve your elderflower soda to my friends on Sunday. The elderberry season is late July, and I am going to go back and pick some to use somehow.
Your blog is very inspiring. Thank you.
Preserved lemons (the pulp removed and the yellow rind diced fine) are a wonderful additon to spicy, garlic-marinated black olives. When I make them ahead for a dinner or party, in fact, it's difficult for my household to refrain from snacking on them, and I usually end up with just a paltry little dish of them left for my guests.
I've actually used the Chez Panisse preserved lemon recipe before, but my lemons got moldy at room temperature (and it wasn't even summer). I tried to be very careful about using a clean jar and not touching the edges with my hands, but I'd recommend refrigerating them to be safe.
I always make Meyer lemon butter (curd) for holiday presents. Yum!
We have a meyer lemon tree that we planted next to our home about 10 years ago. It produces abundantly sweet fruit. Last month we surprised the hosts of a neighborhood open house party with a shopping bag full of Meyers. They were a big hit at the party. The more you pick and share lemons, the more the tree produces.
The preserved lemons sound great! In the past, when I've had too many lemons I juice them and pour the juice into ice cube trays until set, then place the cubes in an airtight container in the freezer. When I need a bit of lemon juice for a recipe, I just take out a couple of cubes.
Auntie Shay shared the frozen lemon cubes as a way to save the juice. Great for simple fresh lemonade. Just add water and sugar.
Heidi, love everything you are doing! Come visit us in Boise.
cookiecrumb said:Yes, exactly the right time of year for this. And I agree with Ann that they might get moldy with this Chez Panisse version... but why waste all that juice? I've been saving just the rinds and -- well, go read about it here (this is supposed to be a link).
Thanks to Paul and Paula for teaching me to pick more often!
cookiecrumb said:but the link doesn't seem to be active, so:
http://madeater.blogspot.com/2005/06/oh-cripes-im-vegan_111913066349055995.html
Ok, I'll report back on the mold "issue"....my guess is that I will be in the clear as long as I make sure all the lemons are covered completely with lemon juice. After two days the lemons have released enough liquid that they are just about covered....might give them a boost with an extra squeeze or two for good measure.
I love the tapenade idea. I'll try that for sure :) -h
I've made this recipe for Israeli Couscous with Preserved Lemons from Epicurious for years, and each time I make it, people love it. It's one of the few recipes I've never been tempted to change! (And you can make it in advance and re-warm it in the oven.)
http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/recipe_views/views/102250
The reason your preserved lemons may be getting moldy is if they are Meyer lemons, or late-season lemons, they tend not to have the same acidity as Eureka (standard) lemons.
David
please send a jar to france! toute de suite! :-)
The first time that I made preserved lemons, I read (maybe in the Slow Mediterranean Kitchen?) that pouring some olive oil over the top when the lemons were ready extended their life. I did that and also keep them in the refrigerator and have never had a problem. I have also begun to use the pulp as well as the peel - the flavor is too good to throw it out!
Heidi -- Just out of curiosity, where did you get the fluted pan with the starburt pattern? I've never see on elike that before. I like it, a lot!
What a simple, delicious idea! Gorgeous photos. Thanks for sharing.
Tag - you're it! The latest meme questions are at my site - http://5recipes.blogspot.com
I am enjoying thoroughly all the comments 'around food'.
I lived for 20 years in the south of Andalucia, and visited Morocco a lot. Preserved lemons are a great favourite in our home.
I very often liquidise them and add it to the traditional Egyptian lentil soups and many sauces. Great with fish.
Elaine
Hi Kim,
Sorry for the delay in response - I was in LA all weekend. I picked up that pan at a flea market a while back. I also picked up a big starburst loaf pan at the same time. I love the textured pattern as well.
-h
what a coincidence, i just made my first batch of preserved lemons! they are ready to be eaten today. i used regular lemons, not meyer, and these instructions:
http://www.stuttercut.org/hungry/archives/recipes/000324.html#000324
by the way, paula wolfert's recipe you mention above is at epicurious:
http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/recipe_views/views/231569
(i was looking at the recipe david linked to and then did a search. the internet is so cool!)
love your site!
athena :-)
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