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Getting Cheeky

August 12, 2005 | by Heather Irwin

I'm pointing to my head. "Head"� I say, pointing again. "Pig. Head." I'm getting a blank look from the butcher, who speaks no English. "Head," I point again, as if he's going to suddenly understand me if I just keep pointing. "I need a pig head." He lifts up a pig's foot. No. Nada. "Head," I point again. This goes on for, oh, three minutes or so as I start to hear snickering from the folks lined up behind me. I'm getting pissed. "PIG HEAD!" I say over and over as I'm wildly gesturing to my head and pointing to the pig guts in the case.

"Cabeza de puerco," says a voice behind me to the butcher, mercifully ending this ridiculous pantomime of mine. "Ahhhh. Si, si," he says with a knowing grin. I think he was just faking it. I really do. The snickering continues behind me, silly gringa. I smile and act like I've known the words my whole life. "Cabeza! Cabeza! El Porko!" I direct him with authority. He disappears into the back.

El Porko indeed. A couple minutes later, I'm handed a frozen pig head, loosely wrapped in newspaper and a plastic bag. Ew.

"So, what are you going to do with that?" asks my helpful translator with a concerned look. I don't think she often sees white girls at Lola's Mexican Grocery asking for whole pig heads. Her question is a perfectly fair one.

I have no idea, I tell her. I really have no idea.

The other, other white meat

Okay, I sort of had an idea. But when I get the meaty skull home and start unwrapping it, I'm not so sure I want to go through with it. I've never been this up-close and personal with my food. The damn thing still has eyeballs. Oh god, I feel like I'm in an Indian Jones movie. It's looking at me.

It goes straight into the trash - outside, double-bagged. But it wasn't supposed to be like this. See, I've been searching for pork cheeks for two weeks. They're all the rage with local chefs; in fact, I had to suffer through not one, not two, but something like five different pork cheek dishes at a recent event in the sweltering summer heat. (Note to chefs: hot, salty pork cheeks=bad plan during 100-degree weather).

So, I figure I'll have no problem finding some cheeks at my local meat counter. Nice, neat little bits of yummy cheek all packaged up and ready to cook. I have the tastiest recipe - something with dried cherries and lots of wine. Oh, yummy! Eagerly, I call one meat counter, then three more, then finally to several meat distributors in the area. Unless I'm planning to buy cheeks in bulk, there's no cheek meat to be had. They all suggest Lola's as a possibility. Lola's is the local Mexican grocery store that features, let's say, a variety of variety meats, including the aforementioned pig head. Lola's doesn't sell cheeks. But if I want the whole head - Si.

You know what happens next. Obviously, I'm not quite ready for this little adventure. I'll work up to it. Opening the cupboard, I decide to give myself a break already. It's been a hard day and there's no reason not to start simple, I think as I open a can of Spam. Hmmm. Well, at least its not looking back at me.

Spam Musubi

This is a popular Hawaiian snack that you either absolutely love-or absolutely hate. It's not fancy, so don't worry about using what you have on hand. To do it authentically, use the Spam can to mold the rice into a little rectangle. However, I alter things a little, making it more like Spam Roll.

1 1/4 inch slice of Spam (sliced lengthwise)
One ripe avocado
Wasabi paste
Sweet teriyaki sauce (I like Soy Vay Island Teriyaki)
Quick Sushi Rice (recipe follows)
Toasted Nori (full sheet)
Soy sauce

In a rice cooker, cook two cups of short-grain rice (long grain won't work correctly). In a separate pan, warm up 1 � tablespoons rice vinegar, 1 tablespoon sugar and � teaspoon salt until the sugar and salt dissolve. Set aside. When rice is cooked, add the salt/vinegar/sugar mixture to the rice and mix. If you're in a hurry, spread the rice on a plate and let it sit on the counter while you're cooking. It should be cooled by the time you're ready for it.

In a warm pan, grill up the sliced Spam, adding some sweet teriyaki sauce for flavor. Slice into thin strips. Set aside.

On the toasted Nori sheet, spread the rice about � inch thick, leaving about � inch uncovered along one edge. At the other end, spread a thin stripe of wasabi, several thin slices of avocado and the strips of Spam. Roll tightly. Slice into � inch pieces like a sushi roll. Dip in soy sauce.

 

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Your Comments

commentNoelle said:
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Hi Heather,

I think this is a fabulous idea, and I'm sure you'll pull it off. But I'd start with the other end of the pig. The head is pretty intimidating. How about trying pork cracklings? You make them from the skin. My mother used to make them when I was little (she also rendered pig fat into lard - a smell I will never, ever forget). But the crackings were good.

Cheers,
Noelle.

August 15, 2005 4:56 PM
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commentfoodie said:
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what we do here in the philippines is that we chop the cheeks, snout (ulk), ears and mince it up and cook in over a sizzling plate! YUMMY if i may say- we call it SISIG :)

August 16, 2005 7:01 AM
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commentSean said:
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Very interesting approach. I’d recommend the Pig Head Recipe from the French Laundry Cookbook. What a great way to use the whole head. Haven’t seen any other pig head recipes.

Cheers,
Sean

August 16, 2005 2:14 PM
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commentsnoozbug said:
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That was great fun! I can't wait for your next adventure. And I think I'll try that recipe soon....can't remember the last time I ate SPAM. Thanks.

August 17, 2005 9:39 AM
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commentJosh said:
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Hi Heather,

FYI, you can order cheeks -- and just the cheeks -- effortlessly at the Niman Ranch website if you're game for trying again. I've done it myself:

http://tinyurl.com/83y8m

August 18, 2005 1:11 PM
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commentpike said:
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i know everyone is just going to write this off 'cause i'm biased, but here goes anyway:
When the headline said you were going to eat a whole pig, I figured that meant you were going to have, say, one poor pig in particular killed and then frozen and maybe work your way through it to prove some kind of point about wastefulness or something. Which does need to be brought up- like, if you're going to eat meat, at least use the whole animal. But no. I was disappointed to see that instead you not only buy into the conceit that we as humans have somehow earned the right to breed, enslave, torture and then kill other animals simply to eat them, but you are then hypocritically disgusted when you actually have to acknowledge the fact that yes, that animal you were so callously munching on and casually buying body parts of WAS just that- an animal; in fact the closest animal (dna-wise) to us humans. You looked into its eyes and felt creepy because it IS creepy. We're not supposed to be doing this- or if we do, we should at least be able to do so with some gratitude and humility for the animal that gave its life to become fodder for some priveleged yuppie's food blog. And be able to face the simple reality that meat comes from animals. I'm not trying to be aggro, I'm just putting it out there. A little respect for the other animals that share this world with us isn't a lot to ask.

August 20, 2005 1:06 AM
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commentDulce said:
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Hi Joe, I completely agree with you, but I might suggest that this isn't the best place to post such a rant. At least we should be happy that there is a resurgence in eating odd animal parts. This is less wasteful. Also, who knows where the Mexican butcher gets his pig? Perhaps he's selling organic, home-grown pork ... stranger things have happened.
An infrequently carnivorous, but decidedly SO, poster

Good luck with the pig cheeks Heather

August 20, 2005 9:10 PM
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commentDulce said:
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Oops! I meant Pike!

August 20, 2005 9:11 PM
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commentVeggirlNY said:
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In a country where meat companies don't want consumers thinking about where their meat comes AT ALL, a journal like this will be an eye-opener to many consumers. 95% of the meat sold in this country is shrink-wrapped and neatly packaged so consumers don't have to get squeemish or uncomfortable about their purchase. How convenient.

I find Heather's voice honest and refreshing and I look forward to watching and hearing her revelations and experiences over time as she works her way through this project.

People don't become vegetarian or vegan overnight. To polarize the issue doesn't help things. To start to strip back the layers of marketing strategy and packaging put in place by industrialized meat will help give consumers a different perspective and insight into what it means to eat meat that hasn't been totally supermarketized. This journal helps to do that. So, bravo on that front Heather.

I have many meat eating friends and family members. I really focus on encouraging them (if they are going to eat it at all) to eat humanely farmed, organically raised animals and dairy. And to at least explore or try to eat one meat-free meal a day, if for no other reason to expand thier horizons.

To think the majority of this country will ever embrace vegetarianism or veganism exclusively is unrealistic. BUT if every American ate one meat free meal a day, the positive impact on our environment, well-being, etc. would be enourmous.

That sort of shift doesn't happen overnight. You have to inspire people with delicious, alternatives to what they are used to eating, and you have to educate them in a way that isn't confrontational and combative. To really make a shift you have to engage them on a culinary level not an animal-rights level.

Again, I commend Heather for helping to put a face back on some of the food on our table if only to help educate consumers who have become totally disconected in regards to where their food comes from.

-Natalie

August 21, 2005 1:02 PM
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commenttruffleupagus said:
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I'm with Natalie all the way. I love Heather's project and can't wait to see how her endeavors turn out!

I'll be back for more...

September 1, 2005 3:14 AM
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commenttruffleupagus said:
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I'm with Natalie all the way. I love Heather's project and can't wait to see how her endeavors turn out!

I'll be back for more...

September 1, 2005 3:14 AM
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commentGloria said:
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I want to affirm that this is an interesting and worth-doing project and to commend Heather on the honesty and humor with which she reported her tangle with the butcher and the pig's head. Many of us have quailed when faced with our ambitions made real. Backing off and approaching from another direction is an act of courage, not cowardice and looking honestly at our responses to our food is an act of respect for that food.
I also want to thank an earlier poster for the lead to Niman Ranch pork cheeks and to offer an Ogden Nash poem which I hope will bring a smile:

The sweetbreads looking up at me
Are not what they purport to be.
Says Webster, in one paragraph,
It is the pancreas of a calf.
Since they are neither sweet nor bread,
I think I'll have a bun instead.

September 4, 2005 11:54 AM
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